Glossary

Glossary · Terminology

471 terms

Acoustic complicationAcoustic complication in watchmaking: minute repeater, sonnerie, grande sonnerie and carillon. Technical differences, hammers, gongs and chiming logic.
acrylic crystalAcrylic crystal in watches: history, optical properties, differences with sapphire and mineral, maintenance and insights from vintage models.
Additive manufacturing3D printing in watchmaking: DMLS, SLM and Binder Jetting explained with technical differences, real applications on cases and documented weight reduction.
AlcantaraAlcantara in watchmaking: synthetic microfiber used for cases, cushions and straps. Technical characteristics, limitations and differences from natural suede.
AluminumAluminum in watchmaking: anodization, aerospace alloys, copper-aluminum, Aeronith and SAXEM. Technical differences, real applications and material limits.
AnglageAnglage: manual beveling of plate and bridge edges in watchmaking. How it's executed, how to recognize it, and why it distinguishes true finishing from industri
Annual CalendarThe annual calendar automatically recognizes 30 and 31-day months and requires only one manual correction per year, at the end of February.
Anti-reflective treatmentAnti-reflective coating on sapphire crystals exploits destructive interference of light. How it works, how many layers are needed and where it should be applied
AntimagneticAntimagnetic in watchmaking: soft iron shielding versus non-magnetic components in silicon or Nivachron. Technical differences, METAS standards, and history fro
ApertureThe watch window: opening in the dial for date, jumping hour, or balance wheel. Types, mechanisms, and constructive differences explained from the bench.
Applied indicesApplied dial indices in watchmaking: fastening techniques, finishing variants, differences from printed indices. Technical bench reference.
ArchitectureArchitecture in watchmaking: how mainplates, bridges, pillars and modules define the internal structure of a movement. Technical guide with real examples.
Art Déco (estetica orologiera)Art Deco in watchmaking: sector dial, gadroons, stylized numerals and rectangular cases. Precise aesthetics born between 1920 and 1940, still recognizable on th
Art Déco (quadrante e cassa)Art Deco in watchmaking: sector dial, gadroons, stylized numerals, trapezoidal indices and baguette cut. The constructive logic of the Thirties-Forties.
Art Déco (watchmaking)Art Deco in watchmaking: geometric cases, sector dials, spider lugs, gadroons, and baguette cutting explained by someone who recognizes them at the workbench.
Artificial PatinaArtificial patina (fauxtina) simulates the natural aging of dials and hands. How it is achieved, when it works, and when it betrays the experienced eye.
Artigianato orologiero giapponeseZaratsu, Urushi, Maki-e, Washi, Asanoha: technical guide to the main decorative and finishing techniques of traditional Japanese watchmaking.
Assegai HandsAssegai hands: the stylistic signature of Laurent Ferrier. Tapered profile inspired by the Zulu spear, hand-finished, identifying mark of the Geneva manufacture
Assi del tourbillonTourbillon axes determine on how many geometric planes the escapement compensates for gravity. From bi-axial to seven axes: principles, costs and real limits.
Automatic ChronographAutomatic chronograph: architecture, history of 1969 calibers, differences between integrated and modular, column wheel and vertical friction explained from the
Automatic windingAutomatic winding in watchmaking: from Harwood's bumper rotor to tungsten microrotors. Bidirectional, unidirectional, Pellaton and Grinder systems explained.
AutomatonAutomaton in watchmaking: animated mechanism integrated into the calibre, distinguished by its own power source and function. From jacquemarts to semi-instantan
AventurineAventurine in watchmaking: differences between artificial Murano glass and natural quartz, cutting techniques, Grand Feu and use in dials.
Balance BridgeBalance bridge: what it is, how it differs from the balance cock, and why dual fixing changes movement stability and shock resistance.
Balance springBalance spring: mechanical hairspring that regulates oscillation. From Nivarox to silicon, from Phillips curve to Rolex Syloxi. Technical guide.
Balance WheelBalance wheel, free-sprung, Nivachron and Parachrom hairsprings: how the regulatory heart of a mechanical movement works, explained from the workbench.
BarrelThe barrel is the energy reservoir of a mechanical movement. Series, parallel, stacked: how configuration changes torque and power reserve.
BarrelThe barrel is the energy reservoir of every mechanical movement. Parallel, series, or stacked: the configuration changes autonomy, torque, and thickness.
Beat RateBeat rate: what is the oscillation frequency of the balance wheel in vph and Hz, how it affects precision, wear, and power reserve in mechanical movements.
Belly CutBelly Cut — Ventral Section
BeobachtungsuhrBeobachtungsuhr (B-Uhr): the Luftwaffe observation watch, 55 mm, onion crown, black Arabic dial and 12 o'clock triangle. Origins and variants.
Bevel gearBevel gear in watchmaking: transmits torque between non-parallel axes. Used in inclined dials, jumping spheres, conical tourbillons, and power reserve indicator
BezelFixed or rotating bezel, unidirectional or bidirectional: technical meaning, materials and real functions explained by a watchmaker with 50 years of bench exper
BezelWatch bezel guide: differences between fixed and rotating, unidirectional and bidirectional, materials from bakelite to Cerachrom ceramic. Technical guide.
BGW9BGW9 is the Super-LumiNova formulation with blue-green emission: differences from C3, quality grades and application methods on watches.
BicompaxBicompax: chronograph layout with only two sub-dials, usually small seconds and 30-minute totalizer. Origin, variants and differences from tricompax.
BidirectionalBidirectional in watchmaking: rotors, bezels and inner rings that operate in both directions. Technical differences, contexts of use and safety implications.
BimetalloBimetal in watchmaking: cases and bracelets with two different metals, from Rolex Rolesor to Mokume-gane. Techniques, alloys, and constructive implications.
BioceramicBioceramic is Swatch's proprietary composite material used in the MoonSwatch: a hybrid of ceramic powders and bio-sourced polymers, lighter than steel.
BioceramicBioceramics: the proprietary Swatch composite used in the MoonSwatch. Ceramics, organic materials, and pigments for lightweight and chromatically free cases, pr
BiretrogradeThe biretrograde is a complication with two independent retrograde hands that travel separate arcs and return to zero at the end of the cycle. Origins, mechanic
Black finishPVD, DLC, black polish, black rhodium, ceramic, and ultra-absorbent coatings: black finishes in watchmaking distinguished by process, hardness, and function.
Blue GoldBlue gold: gold alloy with iron fired in an oven for natural oxidation. Non-coated color, each piece unique. Technique developed by Andersen Genève.
BraceletWatch bracelet: integrated and interchangeable constructions, Oyster and Milanese links, deployant and quick-release adjustment systems explained from the workb
Breguet handsHands with pomme évidée and tapered point, designed by Abraham-Louis Breguet to read the time on guilloché dials. History, correct form and finishes.
Breguet numeralsBreguet numerals: thin Arabic digits with discreet serifs, codified by Abraham-Louis Breguet. Printed, applied, or engraved, they define the classic dial.
BridgeThe bridge in watch movements: structural function, materials, decorations and variants from finger bridge to flying tourbillon. Milano Straps Glossary.
BridgesWatch bridges: structural function, materials like German silver and titanium, Côtes de Genève finishes and skeletonization. Technical guide from a watchmaker.
BronzeBronze in watchmaking: CuSn8, CuAl8, copper-aluminum, and Bronze Gold alloys compared. Patina, corrosion resistance, and practical differences explained from th
Bronze GoldBronze Gold is Omega's patented alloy with 37.5% gold (9K), copper, palladium and gallium: warm bronze color without verdigris, stable brown patina over time.
CageCage in watchmaking: rotating tourbillon structure and antimagnetic Faraday shielding. Technical distinction, constructive variants and bench experience.
CalendarCalendar in watchmaking: differences between complete calendar, annual calendar, perpetual calendar, and secular perpetual calendar. How mechanisms work and whe
CalibreA caliber is the technical identity of a watch: it distinguishes in-house manufacture from derivative, measures frequency, hairspring and architecture. Complete
Calibre 321Caliber 321 Omega: column wheel chronograph derived from the Lemania 2310, heart of the lunar Speedmasters and benchmark of vintage watchmaking.
CamThe cam in watchmaking: how it works in chronographs, perpetual calendars, special escapements and display systems. Technical entry.
Cam chronographThe cam chronograph uses eccentric profiles to start, stop, and reset the chronograph. Fewer components than the column wheel system, greater robustness.
CaratsCarats in watchmaking: gold purity (fraction of 24) and gemstone weight (200 mg) are two distinct units. How gold alloys change from 9 to 24 carats.
CarbideCarbide in watchmaking: differences between tungsten carbide, titanium carbide and coatings. Technical uses in plates, rotors, bezels and cases.
CarbonForged carbon, carbon fiber, and DLC coating in watchmaking: technical differences, construction limits, and what to expect over time.
CarbonCarbon in watchmaking: forged, TPT, DLC, Carbonium and CVD springs explained by a watchmaker with fifty years of bench experience.
Carbon fiberCarbon fiber in watchmaking: differences between laminated, forged, and hybrid composites explained by someone who's been working at the bench for fifty years.
CarillonThe chime in watchmaking: a system of multiple hammers and gongs producing melodic sequences. Differences between Westminster, Grande Sonnerie and Petite Sonner
Carillon WestminsterWestminster carillon: four-hammer melody on four gongs, a striking mechanism that articulates hours, quarters and minutes in melodic sequence.
Central SecondsCentral seconds in watchmaking: how they work, difference between derived and independent central seconds, use in regulator watches and aviation watches.
CeramicCeramic in watchmaking: zirconium oxide, 2,300 Vickers hardness, colors stable within the mass. Scratch-resistant, impact-fragile: everything you need to know.
CertificationCOSC, METAS Master Chronometer, Poinçon de Genève, ISO 6425: a practical guide to watch certifications, what they actually test and where they fall short.
Certification standardWatchmaking certification standards: COSC, Poinçon de Genève, Qualité Fleurier, ISO 6425, Glashütte/SA and proprietary standards compared.
Certificazione METASMETAS certifies the complete assembled watch, not just the movement: tolerances 0/+5 sec/day and 15,000 gauss resistance. Real differences from COSC.
ChamplevéChamplevé: enameling technique in which metal is carved to create cavities then filled with vitreous enamel. Differences with cloisonné and Grand Feu.
Chiusura a viteScrew-down closures in watchmaking: case backs, crowns, and lugs. How the seal works, when to use it, and what distinguishes professional variants.
ChronographChronograph: how the time-interval measuring mechanism works, column wheel, vertical and horizontal clutch, flyback and single-button explained from the bench.
Chronograph control mechanismColumn wheel, cam system, vertical clutch: how chronograph control mechanisms work and how they differ technically.
Chronograph pushersChronograph pushers: differences between pump pushers, piston-style, threaded pushers, and flush-mounted. Morphology, function, and history from the workshop.
ChronometerChronometer: technical guide to COSC certifications, METAS Master Chronometer and Superlative Chronometer, actual tolerances and differences between standards.
ChronometerChronometer in watchmaking: differences between COSC, ISO 3159, METAS and Superlative Chronometer. What each standard actually certifies and what tolerances mea
Cinturino in gommaRubber, FKM, Tropic, Oysterflex: technical guide to watch rubber strap materials and textures, from the bench of a watchmaker with 50 years of craft.
ClaspWatch clasp: differences between pin buckle, déployante, butterfly, and microadjustment systems. Technical guide from Antonio Zichichi's workbench.
Cloisonné enamelCloisonné enamel: decorative technique where soldered gold wires create cells filled with vitreous enamel and fired up to 50 times. Used on high-end watchmaking
Clou de ParisClou de Paris: guilloché pattern with regular pyramids on dials, bezels and movements. Origin, execution technique and difference between stamped and lathe-turn
Clous de ParisClous de Paris: a guilloché pattern of regular pyramids engraved on dials and plates. Technique, variants, and how to distinguish true guilloché from stamping.
CoatingWatch coating explained: PVD, DLC, CVD and AR differences by someone who works with them daily. Vickers hardness and long-term behavior.
Coaxial EscapementThe coaxial escapement is an invention by George Daniels from 1975, industrialized by Omega in 1999: it reduces friction and extends service intervals.
Column wheelThe column wheel coordinates chronograph start, stop, and reset with precise steps. How it works, why it is superior to the cam system, and where it is used.
Column WheelThe column wheel governs the start, stop, and reset of the chronograph with superior precision to cam systems. Technical explanation from the watchmaker's bench
Column WheelThe column wheel commands start, stop, and reset of the mechanical chronograph. How it works, why it is superior to the cam system, and how to recognize it.
Column WheelThe column wheel controls start, stop and reset of the chronograph via a stepped cylinder. Superior to the cam system for precision and reliability over time.
Compass BezelThe compass bezel is a solar orientation instrument, not magnetic. How it works, external and internal variants, real limitations in the field.
CompensationCompensation in watchmaking: tourbillon, thermally stable hairsprings, fusée-and-chain and oil-filled bellows explained by someone who has disassembled them on
ComplicationComplication in watchmaking: every mechanical function beyond hours, minutes and seconds. From calendars to chronographs, how they work and how they differ.
CompositeComposite in watchmaking: how hybrid materials work, from forged carbon to cermet, with the technical differences that really matter.
Conical GeometryConical geometry in watchmaking: conical gears, conical tourbillons and tapered bezels. Technical functions and differences between the three families.
ConstructionConstruction in watchmaking: monolithic, sandwich, modular, and pillar. Case, dial, and movement structural logic explained from the bench.
ContrastContrast in watchmaking: how background, surfaces, and finishes interact to determine readability and aesthetics. From Antonio Zichichi's perspective.
CorrosionCorrosion in watches: differences between 316L, 904L, 316LVM, titanium grades 2 and 5, naval bronze, PREN rating and how to truly prevent it.
COSCCOSC: certifies the movement, not the watch. 15 days, 5 positions, 3 temperatures, −4/+6 s/d. What it does not guarantee and which strap suits a chronometer.
Côtes de GenèveCôtes de Genève: parallel wavy lines incised on movement plates and bridges. Aesthetic function, three main variants, no effect on performance.
Côtes de GenèveGeneva stripes: parallel abrasive lines on plates and bridges, a classic decoration of haute horlogerie. Technique, variants and difference from the Poinçon de
Cottura dello smaltoGrand Feu enamel firing in watchmaking: temperatures, repeated cycles, working risks and differences compared to porcelain and lacquer.
Cristallo bombatoDomed crystal in watchmaking: optical geometry, differences between simple dome and double dome, sapphire machining costs, and impact on case thickness.
Cronografo a comando a cammeCam-operated chronograph uses eccentric profiles to start, stop, and reset the chronograph. Technical differences from the column wheel explained.
CrownThe watch crown: functions, positions, shapes and water-resistance systems explained by someone who has been taking them apart and putting them back together fo
CrystalSapphire, acrylic, flat or domed geometries, AR coating: everything you need to know about a watch crystal, explained from the bench.
CurvatureCurvature in watchmaking: domed crystal, double curvature, convex case and domed dial. Technical and optical differences explained from the workbench.
DateDate complications in watchmaking: jumping date, big date, pointer date, retrograde, Panorama Date and quick-set explained by someone who has been taking them a
Date WindowThe date window is the opening in the dial that shows the day of the month. From Lange's big dates to Glashütte's Panorama Date: techniques and variations.
Dead-beat secondsDeadbeat seconds: the seconds hand advances in discrete impulses, one tick per second. History, mechanisms and constructive differences explained by a watchmake
Deadbeat secondsDeadbeat seconds: the seconds hand snaps every second instead of sweeping. History, mechanisms, differences between deadbeat and jumping seconds explained from
Declared Water ResistanceWaterproof vs water resistant in vintage watches: the history of the military W.W.W. marking, Clamshell and Capsule case patents, and what changed in 1970.
DecorationCôtes de Genève, guillochage, perlage, snailing, gadroons: technical guide to the main decorative finishing techniques of watch movements and dials.
Degradé dialDegradé on dial: execution technique, gradient directions, compatible substrates, and differences between fumé, sandblast and sunburst. From the workbench.
Deployment claspDeployment clasp: variants, micro-adjustment and differences between single deployant, butterfly and friction clasp. Technical guide from a watchmaker with 50 y
Deposizione da vaporePVD and CVD in watchmaking: how they work, where they're applied — from color-shifting dials to carbon springs and lab-grown diamonds.
DepthDepth in watchmaking: water resistance in meters or atm and three-dimensional visual construction of the dial. Two distinct concepts explained from the bench.
Dial Decorative TechniqueGrand feu, guilloché, plique-à-jour, urushi, PVD: the main decorative dial techniques explained by someone who recognises them at the bench.
Dial DetailingMinuterie in watchmaking: small-scale constructive and decorative details that determine the visual character of a watch, from dial to movement.
Dial layoutDial layout in watchmaking: régulateur, bicompax, tricompax, panda and reverse-panda explained with technical precision by a watchmaker with 50 years of bench e
Dial LayoutDial layout: how hours, minutes and complications are distributed across the surface. Regulator, bi-compax, California dial, sector dial explained from the benc
Dial optical effectDial optical effects in watchmaking: sunray, fumé, chatoyance, ombré, hand-hammered and Super Black explained by someone who recognizes them at the bench.
Dial TextureGuide to dial textures: guilloché, soleil, grénage, sandblasting, laser-etching. Technical differences explained by a watchmaker with 50 years at the bench.
Diamond-Like CarbonDLC (Diamond-Like Carbon): ultra-hard amorphous carbon coating applied in a PVD chamber to steel, titanium or gold. Hardness up to 5,000 HV, matte or polished b
Diamond-Like Carbon coatingDLC (Diamond-Like Carbon): ultra-hard amorphous carbon film deposited under vacuum on steel and titanium. Hardness up to 3500 HV, black finish, low friction.
DifferentialThe differential in watchmaking: how it works for dual oscillators, for winding, and for display. Technical distinction from resonance, proven examples.
DigitaleDigital in watchmaking means time shown by discrete digits, not hands. Mechanical or electronic, the principle is the same: numbers that jump.
Digitale (display)Digital displays in watchmaking: from mechanical guichets of the 1930s to jumping hours, LCD and OLED technology. Technical history and key distinctions explain
DiscThe disc in watchmaking: a rotating component that replaces or integrates hands to indicate hours, dates, moonphases, and time zones. How it works and why it ma
DisplayDisplay in watchmaking: hour reading systems with hands, rotating discs, guichets, jumping hours and retrograde. Technical differences explained from the workbe
Dive WatchDive watch: technical structure, unidirectional bezel, helium valve, lume and the difference between a real tool and a desk diver. A watchmaker's guide.
Dive watchTechnical guide to dive watches: helium escape valve, unidirectional bezel, gaskets, pressure testing. From Antonio Zichichi's workbench.
Dive watchDive watch: ISO 6425, unidirectional bezel, helium escape valve and luminescence. Everything that distinguishes a true instrument from a water-resistant watch.
Dive WatchDive watch: ISO 6425 standard, unidirectional bezel, helium release valve, screw-down crown. Everything that technically defines the category.
DLC coatingDLC (Diamond-Like Carbon): ultra-hard amorphous carbon coating applied to watch cases and components. Differences from PVD, durability and real limitations.
Double Impulse EscapementThe dual impulse escapement transmits energy to the balance wheel asymmetrically, reducing friction compared to the classical Swiss lever. Technical analysis.
Driving torqueDriving torque is the twisting force of the mainspring: understanding how it varies and how to stabilize it is the central problem in mechanical watchmaking.
Dual crownDual crown in watchmaking: origins in compressor dive watches, technical operation, differences between inner bezel and regulation, use in modern calibers.
Dual EscapementDual escapement: three different architectures — Zenith, Grand Seiko, Lederer — with opposing construction logics. Technical entry from a watchmaker's workbench
Dual oscillatorThe dual oscillator uses two balance wheels to improve stability and precision. Technical analysis of UN-251, AP caliber 3132, and double spiral systems.
Dual time zone displayGMT traveller, GMT office, independent hand, time zone disc: all mechanical variants for reading a second time zone explained from the bench.
Eco-DriveEco-Drive is Citizen's solar quartz technology: photovoltaic cell beneath the dial, autonomy up to 270 days in darkness, no periodic battery changes.
El PrimeroEl Primero is Zenith's 1969 5 Hz automatic chronograph caliber: measures the tenth of a second with central hand, column wheel and horizontal clutch.
EnamelGrand feu, champlevé, paillonné, plique-à-jour: dial enameling techniques explained with technical precision by a watchmaker.
EnamelingEnameling in watchmaking: grand feu, petit feu, cloisonné, champlevé, plique-à-jour and paillonné explained by someone who works with these dials every day.
End linkThe end link connects the bracelet to the case lugs. Solid or folded, male or female: everything that distinguishes a well-constructed bracelet.
EngravingGuide to watchmaking engraving: guilloché, tremblage, champlevé, flinqué, laser. Techniques, materials, and differences explained by a watchmaker.
Equation of timeThe equation of time shows the difference between true solar time and civil time, from −14 to +16 minutes: how the cam works and the marching version.
ErgonomicsWatch ergonomics: case, lugs, crown, and bracelet analyzed as construction choices that determine real comfort on the wrist.
Escape wheelThe escape wheel regulates energy flow from the gear train to the balance wheel. How it works, how it is made, and how it evolves in modern escapements.
EscapementEscapement: how the mechanical escapement works, from classical types to Co-Axial, silicon, and constant force. Technical guide by a watchmaker.
Escapement TechnologyCo-Axial, Spring Drive, mecaquartz, MEMS, Resonance: the main escapement technologies explained by someone who has been taking them apart for fifty years.
EveroseEverose is Rolex's proprietary 18k rose gold alloy, introduced in 2005, with added platinum to stabilize the color over time.
Explorer (orologio da esplorazione)Explorer vs field watch, Arrow Hand, polar dial, Rail Dial, Blackout: the technical terminology of exploration watches explained by someone who has been taking
Explorer WatchExplorer watch: differences between field watch and exploration watch, Freccione hand, Rail Dial, polar dial, Blackout and neo-vintage variants explained from t
Explorer's watchExplorer's watch: history, functions and technical distinctions from ref. 1655 to Chromalight, between 24-hour indicators, dual-time and collector variants.
FauxFaux in watchmaking: artificial patina, decorative rivets, simulated lugs, and lume without luminescence. What they really mean and when they affect function.
Fibra di carbonio (in orologeria)Carbon fiber in watchmaking: composites, lamination processes, forged carbon, CTP and ceramic variants. Technical guide from Antonio Zichichi's bench.
Fibra di carbonio in orologeriaCarbon fiber in watchmaking: Carbotech, forged carbon, CTP, CMC and other composites explained with technical precision by a watchmaker.
Figura di WidmanstättenThe Widmanstätten pattern is the natural crystal structure of meteoritic iron-nickel, visible on dials after etching. Each section is unrepeatable.
FinishFinish in watchmaking: technical guide to sunray, fumé, opaline, Côtes de Genève, PVD, guillochage and every surface treatment on case, dial, and movement.
FinishingCôtes de Genève, perlage, guilloché, PVD: all watchmaking finishing techniques explained by those who know them from the workbench.
FinishingWatch finishes: perlage, anglage, Côtes de Genève, PVD, satin finishing. Technical guide from the workbench of a watchmaker with 50 years of experience.
FinishingTechnical guide to watchmaking finishing: CNC, guillochage, Grand Feu, skeletonization, composite materials. From the bench of Antonio Zichichi.
Finishing stripesCôtes de Genève, Glashütte Stripes, Moser Stripes: technical differences, origins, and execution methods of decorative striping in watch movements.
Firing (Grand Feu Enamel)Grand Feu firing fuses enamel powder onto a metal base at 750–900 °C in repeated cycles: technique, risks, and differences from porcelain.
FKMFKM — Fluoroelastomer
Floating LugFloating lug in watchmaking: articulated and separated from the case, it absorbs wrist movements. De Bethune patented it in the DB28 line with a spring-loaded s
FlybackThe flyback is the chronograph complication that resets and restarts the hand with a single button press, without stopping the mechanism first.
FlybackThe flyback zeroes and restarts the chronograph in a single press while running. Origins, heart cam mechanism and construction variants.
Flyer GMTFlyer GMT: the local hour hand adjusts one hour at a time without moving the GMT hand. How it works and how it differs from caller GMT.
FlyingFlying tourbillon and flyback: two distinct meanings of the term flying in watchmaking, explained from a technical and historical perspective.
Flying TourbillonFlying tourbillon: cage suspended on one side only, without upper bridge. Origin Helwig 1920. Technical differences, orbital and inclined variants explained fro
Folding claspFolding clasp: history, variants and technical differences of the hinged closure for watch bracelets, from the single-sided Thirties to modern micro-adjustment
FrequencyFrequency in watchmaking: what Hz, vph, and alternations per hour mean, how they affect accuracy and chronographs, from 2.5 Hz to high-beat movements.
Frequenza di battitoBeat frequency in watchmaking: how many oscillations the balance wheel completes each hour, what changes between low-beat and high-beat, and how Twin Beat rewri
FrictionFriction in mechanical movements dissipates up to two-thirds of mainspring energy. How escapements, materials, and geometry reduce it.
Frizione di cronografoChronograph clutch: differences between vertical and horizontal engagement, column wheel and safety clutch. Technical explanation from the watchmaker's bench.
Fumé DialFumé dial is a color gradient from center to edge: painted, Grand Feu enameled, or deposited on sapphire. Technique, variants, and aging behavior.
FunctionGuide to watch functions: hacking seconds, flyback, quickset date, GMT, pulsometer. Technical distinctions and origins of use explained from the workbench.
Funzione flybackThe flyback resets and restarts the chronograph with a single gesture. Origins in the Thirties, aeronautical logic, differences from the rattrapante explained f
G-Shock Shock-Resistant StructureG-Shock shock-resistant structure: Triple 10, Carbon Core Guard, Dual-Core Guard monocoque, and internal modules explained by someone who disassembles them on t
Gabbia tourbillonThe tourbillon cage: weight, materials, flying variants, Exo and armillary. Everything that really matters in the structure that compensates for gravity.
GADAGADA — Go Anywhere, Do Anything: the criterion that defines a versatile, robust, and stylistically neutral watch, suitable for any context of daily use.
Gear trainThe gear train transmits energy from the mainspring to the escapement. Variants: flying train, split train, three-quarter plate, constant force.
Geneva SealThe Geneva Hallmark is a cantonal certification since 1886 that certifies finishing, construction, and Genevan origin of movement and case. It is not a self-cer
GlashütteGlashütte: the Saxon school of German haute horlogerie. Three-quarter plate, parallel striations, swan-neck and flying tourbillon explained from the bench.
Glashütte finishingStriping, three-quarter plate, swan-neck regulator, and flying tourbillon: the constructive and decorative techniques that define the Glashütte watchmaking scho
Glashütte StripingGlashütte ribbing: hand-finished parallel groove finishing on Saxon movement plates. History, technique and differences from Genève stripes.
Glashütte traditionThree-quarter plate, Streifenschliff striping, swan neck regulator, and flying tourbillon: the constructive and decorative techniques of the Saxon watchmaking s
GMTGMT traveller vs GMT office: the technical difference between the two mechanisms, how they work, and when it makes sense to choose one or the other.
GMT complicationGMT traveller, GMT office, dual time: the technical differences between complications that show two time zones on a wristwatch.
GMT HandThe GMT hand rotates in 24 hours and displays a second time zone. Differences between office GMT, flyer, and independent explained from the bench.
GongThe gong is the vibrating wire that produces sound in minute repeaters and sonneries. How it works, how it's tuned, and why the case changes everything.
Grado di finitura del movimentoMovement finishing grade: from standard to élaboré, top grade, Poinçon de Genève, and proprietary seals. Real technical differences explained.
Grana circolareCircular graining: a finish of concentric circles on watch movement plates and bridges. Technique, differences from perlage, and applications on calibers.
Grand FeuGrand feu: enameling technique at 800-900 °C with multiple firings, extremely hard glassy enamel and colors stable for decades. A technical note from the bench.
Grand Feu EnamelGrand feu enamel: firing technique at 800-900 °C, multiple firings, permanent vitreous finish. Differences from petit feu, cloisonné, flinqué, and fumé.
Grand feu enamelingHigh-fire enameling technique that fires vitreous enamel above 800 °C on watch dials. Hard, luminous, difficult: explained by someone who works with watches eve
Grande SonnerieGrande Sonnerie: the acoustic complication that chimes hours and quarters automatically en passant. How it works, difference with Petite Sonnerie and constructi
Gravity (effect on the regulating organ)The effect of gravity on the balance wheel and hairspring alters the rate of a mechanical watch. How it works and how the tourbillon compensates for it.
Green Emission (Luminescence)Green emission in watchmaking: from Super-LumiNova C3 to malachite, from Verde Alpi to Grand Feu enamel. Techniques, variants and differences from the workbench
GuillochéGuilloché is a geometric engraving on metal executed with a rose engine lathe. Learn the main patterns, the difference between hand and mechanical, and the flin
Hack secondsThe hack seconds locks the balance wheel by pulling the crown, allowing synchronization to the exact second. How it works and why it really matters.
HackingHacking stops the balance wheel by pulling the crown to synchronize time to the exact second. Military origins, mechanics, and caliber comparisons.
Hacking SecondsHacking stops the balance wheel when the crown is pulled out, allowing synchronization to the exact second with an external time reference.
HairspringHairspring: what is the balance spring, how it works, differences between materials (silicon, Parachrom, Nivachron) and geometries (flat, cylindrical, Breguet o
HairspringThe hairspring regulates the balance wheel oscillation in mechanical watches. Materials, geometries and in-house production: complete technical guide.
HandWatch hand: shapes, technical functions, manual finishing and role in GMT complications. Practical guide from the bench.
HandThe hand is the indicator organ that translates the caliber's motion into dial reading: hours, minutes, seconds, GMT, date, rattrapante. Complete technical guid
Hand-painted dialHand-painted watch dial in horology: techniques, supports, differences between fired enamel, cold painting and pointillism. What distinguishes true painting fro
HardnessHardness in watchmaking: Mohs and Vickers scales, DLC and PVD coatings, ceramic, Super Titanium and tungsten carbide explained from a technical perspective.
Helium Escape ValveThe helium escape valve discharges helium accumulated in the case during saturation diving. How it works, manual and automatic variants, when you really need it
Helium escape valveThe helium valve allows the escape of gas accumulated in the case during saturation diving. How it works and when you really need it.
High watchmakingHigh horology: in-house movements, Côtes de Genève, Poinçon de Genève, hi-beat frequencies, and complications. What truly distinguishes an excellent caliber.
HoneygoldHoneygold is the proprietary gold alloy of A. Lange & Söhne: 18k honey-colored gold, harder than platinum, reserved for the flagship models of the Glashütte man
Horizontal ClutchHorizontal clutch is the engagement mechanism in chronographs that laterally engages the seconds wheel. Origins, defects and comparison with vertical clutch.
HornbackHornback — Back Cut
Hour markerHour marker: types, materials and dial readability. Baton, applied indices, Breguet numerals: technical differences explained by a watchmaker who restores them.
Hour markersHour markers: shapes, application techniques, luminescent materials, and differences between applied and printed indices. Technical watchmaking reference.
Hybrid movementHybrid movement in watchmaking: technical differences between meca-quartz (VK63, VK64) and Spring Drive Grand Seiko, with bench analysis.
ImpermeabilitàHistory and technique of waterproofing in watches: from the W.W.W. designation of the Dirty Dozen to the screw-down crown, passing through clamshell cases and t
IndicatorIndicator in watchmaking: hand, disc, sphere or arc that translates an internal state of the movement into readable information. Types, functions and technical
Indicazione del tempoEquation of time, GMT, dual time, travel time, world time and Martian Sol: how watchmaking solves the problem of which time to display and how.
Indicazione delle oreFrom Urwerk satellite hours to HYT fluids, through papillon and Star Wheel: technical guide to unconventional hour indication systems.
Indicazione ore non convenzionaleAlternative systems to hands for indicating hours: wandering hours, immiscible fluids, carousel satellites, micro-chains, papillon indicators, and three-armed d
IndicesWatch indices: difference between applied and printed, historical shapes, luminescent materials from radium to Super-LumiNova. Technical guide from the workshop
IntegratedIntegrated bracelet in watchmaking: what it is, how to distinguish it from faux integrated, and why the same logic applies to movements with chronographs or cal
Integrated ChronographIntegrated chronograph: the chronographic mechanism is a structural part of the caliber, not an added module. Technical differences, clutch types and column whe
IridescenceIridescence in watchmaking: how it works on mother-of-pearl, obsidian, opal, plasma ceramic and multilayer PVD. An optical phenomenon, not a material.
Jumping HourJumping hour: the complication that displays the time in a window with an instantaneous change every 60 minutes. History, mechanism and variants explained from
Jumping hourThe jumping hour (jumping hour) is a complication that displays the time by jumping instantly from one numeral to the next. How it works and why it is difficult
LaccaLacquer in watchmaking: from Japanese urushi to synthetic zapon, application techniques, maki-e, shibo-urushi and gilt dials explained from the bench.
Lacquered dialLacquer on dial: from Japanese urushi to Vietnamese Sơn Mài, from Rolex Stella dials to vintage spidering. Technique, history, and pathologies.
LanderonLanderon: Swiss manufacture since 1873, inventor of the cam mechanism for chronographs. History, calibers 148, 248, 251 and technical differences compared to th
Laser engravingLaser engraving in watchmaking: ablation, titanium oxidation, DMLS and SLM. Distinct techniques with different results and permanence, explained from the workbe
Leaf HandLeaf hand: a classical form, wide at the base and tapered toward the tip. Function, geometry, finishes, and differences from the dauphine explained from the ben
LeatherTechnical guide to watchmaking leathers: calf, nubuck, Shell Cordovan, alligator, Saffiano, Epsom and tanneries. From Antonio Zichichi's counter.
Lega aurica proprietariaProprietary gold alloy: from classic 18K formulas to Magic Gold, Sedna, Moonshine and Honey Gold. Chemistry, hardness and color stability explained from the ben
LegibilityWatch readability: how Super-LumiNova, anti-reflective coating, Panda contrast, and dial geometry work to ensure legibility in every condition.
LinkThe link is the constructive unit of the metal watch bracelet: types, internal construction, profiles and differences between rigid links and Milanese mesh.
LinksMetal bracelet links: beads-of-rice, Jubilee, H-link, screw-pins, and ladder constructions. Technical history and design differences explained from the bench.
LubricationLubrication in watchmaking: synthetic oils, lubrication charts, frictionless escapements and self-lubricating materials like silicon. From Antonio Zichichi's be
Lucent SteelLucent Steel A223: Chopard proprietary alloy with 80-85% recycled steel, 50% superior hardness, and cold luminosity similar to white gold.
Lucent Steel A223Lucent Steel A223 is Chopard's proprietary alloy with Vickers hardness 223, pure crystalline structure and up to 85% recycled steel. Technical characteristics e
LugWatch lugs: geometries, types (straight, curved, floating, lugless, integrated) and lug-to-lug measurement explained by a watchmaker with 50 years of bench expe
Lug attachmentThe watch lug attachment is the system connecting strap or bracelet to the case: spring bars, quick-release, T-bars, bows, and fixed lugs explained from the ben
Lug spacingLug spacing is the internal distance between the two case attachment pins. How to measure it, what values exist, and why it matters in watchmaking.
Lug WidthLug Width — Watch Strap Size Guide
Lug-to-lug distanceLug-to-lug distance: the measurement in mm between the tips of a case's lugs. Often more decisive than diameter for wrist comfort.
Lug-to-Lug DistanceLug-to-lug distance: what it is, how to measure it, and why it determines wrist comfort more than case diameter. Technical guide by Antonio Zichichi.
LumeLume: technical guide to photoluminescent materials in watches, from Super-LumiNova BGW9 to Chromalight, with application, formulas, and history.
LumeNocturnal luminescence in watches: from radium to Super-LumiNova, Chromalight and Globolight. Physical principles, formulations and technical differences explai
LuminescenceLuminescence in watches: how Super-LumiNova, LumiBrite and Chromalight work. Differences between grades, colors emitted and the history of radioactive lume.
Luminescence in watchmakingWatch luminescence: differences between Super-LumiNova, Chromalight, tritium and luminescent printing. Applications on indices, hands and sandwich dials.
MadreperlaMother-of-pearl in watchmaking: aragonite structure, physical iridescence, fragility in machining, decorative techniques from guilloché to nacre brouillé to rad
Magnetic fieldMagnetic field is the most common cause of inaccuracy in mechanical movements. ISO 764 standard, silicon balance springs, Faraday cage and demagnetization expla
Magnetic resistanceMagnetic resistance in mechanical watches: soft iron inner case, paramagnetic hairsprings, METAS certification and how to recognize a magnetized caliber.
Magnetism (resistance to)Magnetic resistance in watchmaking: from ISO 764 to silicon hairsprings, from soft iron cages to ARCAP. Technical explanation from the workbench.
MainplateThe mainplate is the structural foundation of every mechanical movement. Materials, finishes, and architectures explained by someone who has worked on calibers
MainspringThe mainspring is the source of energy in every mechanical movement: how it works, materials, bridle, stop-work and fusée explained from the bench.
MainspringThe mainspring is the torque reservoir of the mechanical movement. How it works, why torque isn't constant, and how the barrel, fusée, and remontoire compensate
Manual WindingManual winding in watchmaking: how it works, why it affects calibre thickness, finishing and daily wear experience.
Marine ChronometerMarine chronometer: history, detent escapement, pillar construction and fusée-and-chain. The technique that solved the longitude problem.
MarkingWatch marking: technical guide to abbreviations, hallmarks, and engravings on dial, case, and caseback — origin, materials, military use, and historic methods.
Master ChronometerMaster Chronometer is the METAS certification that tests the finished watch for accuracy, resistance to 15,000 gauss, and water resistance. More stringent than
Master Chronometer CertificationMaster Chronometer certification (METAS) tests the assembled watch: precision 0/+5 s/day, 15,000 gauss resistance, water resistance verified.
Matte finishMatte finishing in watchmaking: sandblasting, microblasting, vapor-blasting and glass bead. Technical differences, history from the Submariner 5513 to modern to
Meccanismo sonante (striking)Striking in watchmaking: sonnerie au passage, Grande Sonnerie, striking regulator explained by a watchmaker with 50 years of bench experience.
MechanicalMechanical movement in watchmaking: barrel, regulating assembly, amplitude, manual and automatic winding, complications. Technical explanation from the workbenc
MechanismWatchmaking mechanism: column wheel, jumping hour, tourbillon, Co-Axial and retrograde explained by someone who has been disassembling them on the bench for 50
Metalli in orologeriaSteel, gold, tantalum, niobium, Mokume Gane: how metals define the structure, appearance, and cost of a watch. Technical entry from Antonio Zichichi's workbench
METAS Master Chronometer CertificationMETAS Master Chronometer: independent Swiss certification that tests the assembled watch. Tolerance 0/+5 sec/day, resistance to 15,000 gauss.
Métiers d'ArtMétiers d'art in watchmaking: Grand Feu enameling, guillochage, hand engraving, cloisonné and lacquer. Artisanal techniques that cannot be delegated to machines
Métiers d'ArtMétiers d'art in watchmaking: Grand Feu enameling, guilloché, marquetry, cloisonné, hand engraving. Distinct artisanal techniques applied to dials and cases.
Micro-rotorThe micro-rotor is an automatic winding rotor integrated into the movement's plane: thinner, often in platinum or tungsten, visible from the caseback.
Minute RepeaterThe minute repeater strikes hours, quarters, and minutes on demand through hammers and gongs. How it works, how to distinguish it from sonneries, and what reall
Minute RepeaterThe minute repeater acoustically strikes hours, quarters, and minutes. Technical guide to variants: classical, decimal, carillon, and jumping counter.
Minute RepeaterThe minute repeater chimes hours, quarters and minutes on demand through hammers and gongs. How it works and how it differs from the grande sonnerie and quarter
Mirror PolishPolished in watchmaking: mirror polish, anglage, Grand Feu, rhodium plating. How directional light reflection becomes design grammar.
Mirror polishingMirror polishing, black polishing, and Zaratsu: related techniques, different names. A technical guide to recognizing them on cases and movements.
Mirror polishingBlack polishing in watchmaking: manual technique on flat plates producing mirror surfaces that appear black. Different from PVD and DLC, used in Haute Horlogeri
MobileMobile in watchmaking: mobile bridge, running hand, column wheel, GMT flyer, automaton and gimbal. Technical guide from a watchmaker with 50 years of bench expe
ModulareWatchmaking architecture with independent components: base movement, complication module, case. Differences between modular and integrated chronographs explaine
ModuleA module in watchmaking is an autonomous mechanical structure added to a base movement for complex functions. Differences between modular and integrated, with r
MollaSpring in watchmaking: mainspring, hairspring, and structural. Materials, shapes, and physics of three distinct components explained by someone who's been takin
Molla motriceThe mainspring is the energy source of the watchmaking mechanism: how it works, why torque decays, and how manufacturers solve the problem.
Monobloc ConstructionMonobloc construction in watchmaking: case carved from a single block, fewer water ingress points, fewer joints. Applications, advantages and real limitations.
Monoblock caseMonoblock case in watchmaking: three distinct constructive solutions, from professional divers to ultra-thin, with practical workbench implications.
Moon phaseThe moon phase is a mechanical complication that replicates the synodic cycle of 29.53 days through a rotating disc, with precision ranging from 1 day every 2 y
MovementWatch movement architecture, construction and finishing: mainplates, bridges, micro-rotor, skeletonization and inverted mounting explained from the bench.
Movement finishingTechnical guide to watchmaking movement finishing: anglage, perlage, Côtes de Genève, black polishing, snailing and galvanic coatings explained from the workben
Movement Quality GradeÉlaboré, Top Grade, Soignée, Poinçon de Genève: how the hierarchy of quality grades works in Swiss watch movements.
Movimento Spring DriveSpring Drive: Seiko's hybrid caliber that regulates the gear train with an electromagnetic brake and quartz, without a battery. Accuracy up to ±0.5 sec/day.
Naiad LockNaiad Lock is Omega's patented system that locks the screw-down caseback in the correct angular position, aligning engravings and text at final tightening.
NeroPVD, DLC, Grand Feu enamel, Vantablack: black in watchmaking is a family of treatments with very different mechanical and optical behaviors.
Newlife®Newlife®
NickelNickel in watchmaking: from austenitic alloys to LIGA components, from meteorite dials to contact allergies. Complete technical entry.
Night legibilityNighttime visibility in watchmaking: photoluminescent materials like Super-LumiNova and Chromalight, skeletonized dials and flying tourbillons explained from th
NivachronNivachron is the balance spring in niobium-titanium alloy developed by Nivarox for Swatch Group: magnetic resistant, temperature stable.
No-Deco ScaleThe no-deco scale on a dive watch bezel shows the maximum diving time at different depths without requiring decompression stops. Origin and function.
Nomos Swing SystemNomos Swing System: Nomos Glashütte's proprietary escapement, presented in 2014, featuring a blue-tempered balance spring. Mounted on DUW calibers.
NumeralsWatch numerals explained: Arabic, Roman, California dial, and Breguet. Differences in readability, history, and technical use explained from the workbench.
OmbréOmbré on watch dial: concentric lacquer shading technique, differences with fumé dial and transparent sapphire optical variants.
Orbital Disc SystemThe Ressence ROCS system: biaxial orbital discs, magnetic transmission, oil-filled dial, and thermal compensation bellows. How it works.
Oscillating weightThe oscillating mass charges the mainspring in automatic watches. Central rotor, microrotor, peripheral: technical differences and materials explained by a watc
OxidationOxidation in watchmaking: thermal treatments on titanium, patina on bronze, rhodium anti-oxidation and historical cases like the Daytona Patrizzi explained from
Painted dialPainted watch dials: from Credor porcelain fired in the kiln to Genevan enamel with Fondant de Genève, through to metal miniature painting. Techniques compared.
PalladiumPalladium in watchmaking: its role in proprietary alloys by Omega, Breguet, Audemars Piguet and in Bulk Metallic Glass. Technical function, not decorative.
Panda dialPanda dial: light background with dark counters on chronographs. Functional origins in the 1960s, reverse panda variant, technical differences and vintage colle
Pare-chuteThe parachute is the balance wheel shock absorption system patented by Breguet in 1790. Technical guide from the classic to De Bethune's triple parachute.
Passo tra le anseLug spacing is the internal distance between the two attachment points of a watch case. How to measure it, what values exist, and why English terminology create
PatentPatents in watchmaking document real technical solutions: from shock-resistant balance wheels to secret metal alloys. A voice from the workbench.
Pattern WidmanstättenThe Widmanstätten pattern is the iron-nickel crystalline structure of iron meteorites: how it forms, why it is unrepeatable, and how it is treated in watchmakin
Peripheral rotorThe peripheral rotor is the automatic oscillating mass mounted on the edge of the plate. It reduces thickness and frees the view of the mechanism from the caseb
PerlagePerlage is a watchmaking finish of overlapping micro-circles on plates and bridges, executed with a rotating tool. Both aesthetic and practical function.
Perpetual CalendarThe perpetual calendar handles irregular months and leap years without manual corrections until 2100. How it works, variants, and differences with the annual ca
Peseux 7001The Peseux 7001 is a 2.5 mm Swiss manual caliber, 21,600 vph, 42-hour power reserve. Preferred base for independent watchmakers' custom modifications.
Petite (strike, seconds, tapestry)Petite sonnerie, petite seconde and petite tapisserie: three distinct concepts of French watchmaking explained with technical precision.
Petite SonneriePetite sonnerie: the automatic striking mode that chimes the quarters without repeating the hour at every quarter change. Differences with grande sonnerie and m
PhotoluminescencePhotoluminescence in watchmaking: how Super-LumiNova works, the C1, C3, BGW9, X1 variants and how it's applied to hands and indices.
Pilot WatchPilot watch: German origins, Type B Flieger dial, oversized crown, antimagnetic protection and flyback. Technical guide from someone who's been taking them apar
Platinum950 platinum in watchmaking: density, proprietary alloys, micro-rotors, visual markers and differences compared to white gold. Technical bench note.
PolishingPolishing in watchmaking: Zaratsu, sandblasting, Geneva stripes and bevels. Techniques, optical differences and how to spot a hasty refinish.
PotenzaPower in watchmaking: from mainspring to balance wheel, how fusée, remontoire, stop-work, and micro-rotor work to maintain constant torque.
Power ReservePower reserve: what it is, how it's measured and how the main indication systems work in modern mechanical calibers.
PrecisionWatch precision: COSC certifications, Master Chronometer METAS, tourbillon, remontoir and free-sprung balance explained by a horologist working at the bench.
Proprietary Gold AlloyMoonshine Gold, Sedna, Bronze Gold, King Gold, Sand Gold: what truly distinguishes proprietary gold alloys from standard 18k gold in watchmaking.
Proprietary gold alloysProprietary gold alloys in watchmaking: Moonshine Gold, Sedna, Magic Gold, Everose, Honey Gold. Compositions, hardnesses, and real differences explained from th
Proprietary technologyProprietary technology in watchmaking: Spring Drive, Co-Axial, LIGA, DIAMonSIL, plasma ceramic. How to recognize and evaluate them without relying on marketing
Push ButtonThe push button in watchmaking: differences between pump pusher, mono-pusher, push-button crown, and double-button closing systems. Technical guide.
PusherThe pusher in watchmaking controls chronographs, GMTs and complications. Differences between single-pusher, two-pusher, flyback and slide pusher explained from
PusherThe pusher is the external button on the case that commands movement functions: chronograph, calendar correction, time zone. Types, shapes, and mechanisms expla
QualityWatchmaking quality: COSC, Poinçon de Genève, Qualité Fleurier, Élaboré and Soignée grades explained by a watchmaker with fifty years of bench experience.
QuartzQuartz in watchmaking: piezoelectric crystal, frequencies, meca-quartz, Spring Drive, thermocompensated quartz, and structural uses like aventurine and tiger's
Quick ReleaseQuick-release allows you to change straps or bracelets without tools. How it works, mechanical variants, and differences between proprietary systems and univers
Quick-release systemQuick-release systems allow strap changes without tools. Technical guide to proprietary systems: One Click, EasX-CHANGE, QuickSwitch, drilled lugs.
Quick-Release SystemThe quick-release system allows you to change the strap without tools. Technical guide to proprietary and standard variants, from a watchmaker's bench.
Racing (cronografo e design motorsport)Racing in watchmaking: tachymetric scale, mushroom pushers, racing dial and British Racing Green. Technical origins from motorsport in the 1960s and 1970s.
Racing (estetica e funzione nei cronografi da corsa)Racing in watchmaking: tachymeter scale, dials with orange accents, mushroom pushers and British Racing Green. Technical origins and correct reading.
RattrapanteThe rattrapante is a complication with two overlapping separable hands: it measures split times without interrupting total timing. Technical guide.
Recycled steelRecycled steel in watchmaking: from remelting processes to proprietary alloys like Lucent Steel, eSteel and PuReSteel. Properties, certifications and technical
Regolazione rapida della dataQuickset: how rapid date adjustment works in watches, the mechanical danger zone, and the difference between unidirectional and bidirectional systems.
RegulationWatchmaking regulation: from inertia screws to goose-neck regulator, from hacking to tourbillon. Technical guide by Antonio Zichichi for Milano Straps.
RegulatorThe regulator in watchmaking: dial layout with hours, minutes, and seconds separated, and fine-tuning devices like the swan-neck. Two distinct concepts.
RehautThe rehaut is the band between dial and case inner edge: structure, functional scales, guilloché finishes and laser engravings explained by a watchmaker.
ResistanceWatch resistance: water, scratches, magnetism, and shocks. Materials, coatings, and certifications explained by a watchmaker with 50 years at the bench.
RetrogradeThe retrograde mechanism: how the snail cam works, why the hand snaps back to zero in a flash, and where these movements wear over time.
Rivestimento neroPVD and DLC: two different processes, same opaque black visual result. Technical differences, hardness, thickness and wear limits explained from the bench.
ROCS System (Ressence Orbital Convex System)The Ressence ROCS system replaces hands with eccentric rotating discs on a convex titanium dial. How it works, version by version.
Rose EngineThe rose engine lathe is the manually controlled machine used to engrave guilloché on dials. A craft technique from the sixteenth century, still irreplaceable.
Rose engine latheThe rose engine is the historic machine that produces guilloché: how it works, why it is unreproducible by CNC, and what distinguishes true artisanal work.
Rose Engine Turning / Engine TurningGuilloché and engine turning in watchmaking: history, rose engine lathe technique, differences between manual and CNC work, classical and contemporary patterns.
Rose GoldRed gold in watchmaking: 5N and 6N alloys, differences with rose gold, Omega's Sedna, and behavior over time. Technical notes from the bench.
Rotating bezelRotating bezel: functions, types (unidirectional, bidirectional, internal) and materials explained by someone who has worked on vintage and modern watches for t
Rotating elementRotating element in watchmaking: tourbillon, unidirectional bezel, GMT disks and satellite hours. Three categories, different constructive logics explained from
RotorThe rotor is the oscillating mass of the automatic movement. Central, micro-rotor, or peripheral: technical differences, materials, and history from 1923 to tod
RubberVulcanized latex, HNBR and FKM: technical differences, history and practical limits of elastomers in watchmaking explained from the bench.
rubber strapRubber strap: differences between natural rubber, silicone and FKM, origin of Tropic-style, hobnail and sailcloth textures, hybrid Oysterflex construction.
RubinoRuby in watchmaking: synthetic bearings to reduce friction in movements and natural ruby as a decorative element and visual code in timepieces.
Sandblasted finishSandblasted finishing in watchmaking: how sandblasting works, the difference between sandblasted and microblasted, uses on case, dial, and movement.
Sandwich dialThe sandwich dial is a two-layer construction in which the lume is applied to the lower disc and visible through the cutouts of the upper one.
Sandwich dialThe sandwich dial is a two-layer construction: the luminescent material lives on the bottom, visible through the cutouts of the upper layer. Real depth, not sim
Sapphire CrystalSapphire crystal in watchmaking: Vickers hardness, domed shapes, AR treatment, monobloc gong and technical uses beyond the front. Glossary entry.
Sapphire crystalSapphire crystal in watchmaking: geometries, AR treatments, machining and domed, double-domed, box-domed variants and transparent case back explained from the w
Sapphire crystalSynthetic sapphire in watchmaking: hardness, domed and box domed profiles, AR coating, transparent casebacks and dials. All from a watchmaker's bench.
Satin finishingSatin finishing in watchmaking: techniques, differences between straight graining, diffuse, radial and microblast finishes, and how to recognize well-executed f
Scala di non-decompressioneThe no-decompression scale on the bezel indicates the maximum diving time without decompression stops. History, function and differences between Doxa models.
Scala no-decompressioneThe no-decompression scale on the bezel indicates the maximum immersion time without decompression stops. Origin US Navy, patented by Doxa in 1967.
scala pulsometricaThe pulsometric scale measures heart rate by counting a fixed number of beats: 15, 30 or 60. Everything about its history, function and reading.
ScaleWatch scale: from tachymeter to telemeter, pulsometer, and power reserve. How they work and how to read them on the dial.
ScaleWatch scales explained: tachometric, telemetric, pulsometric, decimal, GMT. How they work and where they are located on dial, bezel, and rehaut.
Scratch resistanceMohs scale, Vickers, DLC, ceramic, Tegiment, Duratect: how scratch resistance is measured and achieved in modern and vintage watches.
Screw-down crownThe screw-down crown seals the case stem tube with mechanical threading. How it works, why it's critical, and what to check on a vintage watch.
SealSeal in watchmaking: hermetic case sealing and qualitative movement certification. Technical differences, historical systems, and the Poinçon de Genève.
Second time referenceGMT, Dual Time, World Timer, equation of time, sidereal time: the technical differences between complications that display a second time reference.
Second time zone displayGMT traveller, GMT office and dual time are not synonyms: technical differences between complications for reading a second time zone.
SecondsSeconds in watchmaking: deadbeat, retrograde, hacking, sub-seconds and regulator. Technical guide to the different seconds displays in mechanical movements.
Seconds handSeconds hand in watchmaking: hacking, deadbeat, zero-reset, stepping and sweep. Functions, mechanisms and differences between mechanical and quartz movements.
Sector dialThe sectored dial divides the surface into distinct concentric zones for hours, minutes, and seconds. Art Deco origin, function of rapid readability.
SeikoSeiko: Spring Drive, Zaratsu, NH35, Ever-Brilliant Steel, and Dual Impulse Escapement explained from the workbench of a watchmaker with 50 years of experience.
SellitaSellita: Swiss ebauche manufacturer, alternative to ETA with SW200, SW300, SW500 calibers and D1–D4 finishing levels. Everything you need to know.
Shock AbsorberShock absorber in watches: from Incabloc and KIF systems to movement suspension. Technique, history and practical differences explained from the bench.
Shock protectionThree levels of shock protection in watches: balance pivot, movement suspension, and case geometry. Technical differences explained from the workbench.
Sigillatura a zero ossigenoTechnique that replaces the internal air in the case with pure nitrogen: eliminates condensation and oxidation in Montblanc models for extreme environments.
SiliconSilicon in watchmaking: hairsprings, escapements and MEMS wafers. Technical advantages, limitations and applications in movements by Rolex, Patek, Omega, GP and
Silicon hairspringSilicon hairsprings in watch movements: material, technical advantages over steel, isochronism, anti-magnetism and real limitations explained from the bench.
Single handThe single hand indicates hours and minutes with one index, without a minute hand or second hand. How it works and what it requires from the movement.
Single-pusher chronographSingle-pusher chronograph: one button for start, stop, and reset. History, column wheel mechanism and differences from the two-pusher.
Sistema a sgancio rapidoQuick-release system in watches: how it works, differences between tool-free spring bars, proprietary interfaces and keeperless systems. Technical analysis.
Sistema di visualizzazione orbitaleThe Ressence ROCS system replaces hands with orbital satellites on a convex dial immersed in oil. How the patented display module works.
SkeletonizationSkeletonization in watchmaking: removal of material from mainplate and bridges to reveal the movement. Explained: the difference between skeletonized and open-w
SkeletonizationSkeletonization in watchmaking: removal of material from mainplate and bridges to make the movement visible. Differences between open heart, display back, and f
SkeletonizedSkeletonized in watchmaking: technical difference with open-worked, how plate skeletonization is performed, where it applies to rotors and bridges. Glossary ent
Skeletonized dialSkeletonized dial in watchmaking: difference from skeletonized movement, material removal techniques, structural and finishing implications.
SkeletonizzatoSkeletonized in watchmaking: removal of material from mainplate and bridges to expose internal mechanics. Technique, variations and finishing reading.
Slide RuleThe calculator in watches: logarithmic scales, rotating E6B bezels, circular slide rules. How it really works, from vintage variants to underwater applications.
Smaltatura a fuocoFire enameling in watchmaking: Grand Feu, champlevé, cloisonné and painted miniature. Techniques, real differences and production limits explained from the work
SnailingSnailing is a spiral finishing technique incised into metal, used on wheels, plates, and dials. How it's executed and how to recognize it at the bench.
Sonnerie au PassageSonnerie au passage: a striking complication that sounds the hours automatically as they pass, without button pressure. Origins, mechanics, and modern variants.
SpeedmasterOmega Speedmaster: history of calibers 321 and 3861, Alpha hands, Dot Over Ninety, tropical dials and NASA qualification for space EVA.
Spring barsSpring bars secure the watch strap to the lugs. Technical guide on types, materials, drilled lugs, and quick-release systems.
Spring DriveSpring Drive: Grand Seiko's hybrid movement with quartz electromagnetic brake, battery-free. Accuracy down to ±20 seconds/year in the 9RB2 UFA caliber.
Stainless steelStainless steel in watchmaking: from 316L to 904L, proprietary alloys like Ever-Brilliant, O-MEGASTEEL, Lucent Steel, Damascus steel and DLC coatings explained
Stepped DialThe step dial divides the surface into concentric planes that create real visual depth. History, variants and technique, from the watchmaker's workbench.
Stone dialNatural stone watch dials: lapis lazuli, malachite, meteorite, opal. Technique, fragility, machining and differences among the minerals most used in watchmaking
StrapStrap in watchmaking: types, quick-release attachment systems, NATO origins, Bund, rally and Tropic. Technical guide from the bench of a watchmaker with 50 year
Struttura anti-urto G-ShockThe shock-resistant construction philosophy of G-Shock: from Kikuo Ibe's Triple 10 principle to Carbon Core Guard, Dual-Core Guard, and metal-covered structures
SubdialsCounters in watches: what are registers and subdials, tricompax and bicompax layouts, panda dial, rattrapante. Technical glossary by Antonio Zichichi.
SubdialsSubdials in chronographs: differences between tricompax and bicompax, azurage finishing, panda and reverse panda effects, position and readability.
Sunburst finishingSunburst finishing is a radial working of the dial that changes in tone and reflectivity with the viewing angle. How it works and how to recognize it.
Sunray finishSunray finish: radial striations engraved or brushed on the dial that change color with the angle of light. Differences between sunray brushed, guilloché, and f
Suono nelle complicazioniGongs, hammers, cathedral gongs, soundboxes and sound boards: how sound works in haute horlogerie mechanical complications.
Suono nelle complicazioni sonoreGongs, hammers, soundbox, and materials: how sound works in acoustic complications in watchmaking, from minute repetition to carillon.
Super-LumiNovaSuper-LumiNova: what it is, how it works, differences between BGW9, C1, X1, X2 variants and how it's applied to dials. Technical guide from the workbench.
Super-LumiNova X1Super-LumiNova X1: the highest-performing grade of the strontium aluminate-based photoluminescent system. Emission, colors, and applications explained from the
SupersonnerieSupersonnerie is the acoustic system patented by Audemars Piguet that mounts gongs on a soundboard to amplify minute repeaters and chiming complications.
Surface depositionPVD, CVD, and ALD are three vapor deposition processes used in watchmaking to coat cases, dials, and components. Technical differences and results compared.
Surface treatmentTechnical guide to surface treatments in watchmaking: PVD, DLC, anodizing, thermal oxidation, anti-scratch and AR treatments. Real differences explained from th
SustainabilityRecycled, bio-based and upcycled materials in watchmaking: Carbonium, eSteel, ghost nets, Bioceramic, ocean plastic. What is verifiable and what is narrative.
Swing SystemThe Swing System is the proprietary escapement of Nomos Glashütte, with a blue aluminum-niobium hairspring and six-position regulation, produced entirely in-hou
Swing System (scappamento Nomos)The Nomos Swing System is Glashütte's proprietary escapement, with blue-tempered balance spring, mounted on DUW calibers since 2014. Technical entry Milano Stra
Swiss MadeSwiss Made: legal requirements, value thresholds, differences with Swiss Movement and I.O.E.S., and how to read T SWISS MADE T markings on vintage dials.
SynchronizationSynchronization in watchmaking: hacking, stop-seconds, zero-reset, GPS, and resonance. How they work and why they matter for daily accuracy.
SystemIn watchmaking, 'system' indicates a patented mechanical solution: from IWC's Pellaton to Rolex's Ringlock, to Ressence's ROCS. Technical entry.
SystemTechnical entry on patented watchmaking systems: Ressence ROCS, Nomos Swing System, Formex Case Suspension, ZRC Crown Protection and others.
Tachymeter scaleThe tachymetric scale converts time measured by the chronograph into average speed. How it works, where it's located, and what distinguishes the main types.
TanningTannage — Tanning
TaperTaper — Strap Narrowing
TapisserieTapisserie: the engraved motif on the Royal Oak dial since 1972. Pantograph technique, three variants (Petite, Grande, Mega) and real optical function explained
Tapisserie (motivo)The Royal Oak tapisserie pattern: origin, Grande, Petite and Méga variants, engine-turning technique and optical differences in materials.
Teardrop lugTeardrop lug: structural case form that connects bezel and wrist without sharp edges. Used by Parmigiani, Urban Jürgensen and others with different techniques.
Technical ceramicTechnical ceramics in watchmaking: zirconium oxide, alumina, Cerachrom, Ceratanium, Magic Gold. Properties, manufacturing processes and technical variants expla
Technical ceramicTechnical ceramics in watchmaking: sintered material from zirconium oxide or alumina, homogeneous throughout, scratch-resistant and hypoallergenic. Differences
Tecniche decorative giapponesi per quadrantiZaratsu, Maki-e, Mokume Gane, Raden, Nanako, Kirazuri: the main Japanese artisanal techniques applied to watch dials and cases.
Tecnologia di scappamento ibridoHybrid escapement: Spring Drive, Co-Axial, and mecaquartz compared. Operating principles, technical differences, and construction logic explained from the workb
Tecnologia orologiera ibridaHybrid watchmaking technology: Spring Drive, mecaquartz, SolarBeat and resonance explained with technical precision by someone who knows them from the bench.
Tempo solare e fusi orariEquation of time, GMT, dual time, world time, and Martian time zone: the technical differences between the main time measurement complications explained from th
Tenuta stagnaWater resistance in watches is a system of physical barriers: crown, caseback, and crystal. How it works, how to verify it, and why it ages.
Thermal compensationThermal compensation in watchmaking: bimetallic balance wheels, silicon hairsprings, thermocompensated quartz and bellows in fluid movements. Complete technical
ThicknessWatch thickness depends on the caliber, rotor type, and gear train arrangement. How it's measured and what really determines it.
Three-quarter plateThe three-quarter plate is the typical construction solution of Glashütte: a single sheet in German silver with Saxon finishing that stiffens the movement.
Time (time zone and solar time complications)Equation of time, GMT, dual time, world time, and time zones: horological complications explained with technical precision by someone who has worked at the benc
Time ZoneGMT traveller, GMT office, worldtimer, 24-hour bezel: time zone complications explained with the technical logic of bench regulation.
Time Zone ComplicationTime zone function in watchmaking: GMT traveller, GMT office, worldtimer, caller-style and coupled GMT. Real mechanical differences explained from the counter.
TimingTiming in watchmaking: from countdown bezels to flyback chronographs, from eccentric timing screws to resonance. Technical guide entry by entry.
TitaniumTitanium in watchmaking: grades, alloys, heat treatments, PVD, CVD and acoustic properties. Technical guide from a watchmaker with 50 years at the bench.
TolleranzaRate tolerance in watches: how to read it, what COSC, METAS and internal seals from Rolex and Patek Philippe certify. Explained from the bench.
Tolleranza di marciaRate tolerance in watches: technical meaning, differences between COSC, METAS, Superlative Chronometer and Patek Philippe Seal. Explained from the bench.
TolleranzeTolerance in watchmaking: allowable deviation between nominal and actual component dimensions. From MEMS processing to vintage degradation, how it impacts preci
TourbillonThe tourbillon in watchmaking: origin, function, flying and multi-axis variants. Technical explanation from someone who knows them from the bench.
Tourbillon multi-assialeThe multi-axis tourbillon rotates on two, three or more axes simultaneously to compensate for gravity on different planes. Technical history, real limitations a
Tourbillon Rotation AxesTourbillon rotation axes: from one to seven planes of gravitational compensation. How construction changes and what precision actually gains.
Traccia dei minutiThe minute track marks the perimeter of the dial for precise minute reading. Railroad origins, constructive variants, and practical function explained.
Traccia minuteria a binario ferroviarioThe railroad track minute scale: origins on railway chronometers, optical function on the dial, and criteria for recognizing correct execution.
Tri-synchro AdjustmentTri-synchro Regulation: the Spring Drive system that uses electromagnetic braking and quartz to control a glide wheel without mechanical escapement or battery.
TricompaxTricompax: history and meaning of the three-subdial configuration in mechanical chronographs, from Universal Genève's origins to current use.
Unconventional time displaySatellites, fluids, three-armed hands: alternative mechanical systems to the classic hand for telling time. Technical glossary Milano Straps.
Unidirectional bezelThe unidirectional bezel rotates only counterclockwise for diving safety: if struck, the time can only decrease. Mechanism, variants, and ISO 6425 logic.
ValjouxValjoux: history and technique of chronograph calibers from the 23 of 1916 to the 7750, with variants, architectures and modern derivatives. A guide from the be
Variable InertiaThe variable inertia balance wheel regulates frequency by moving small movable masses on the spokes, without touching the hairspring. Watchmaking glossary entry
Variable inertia balance wheelThe variable inertia balance wheel regulates frequency by shifting movable masses on the rim, without touching the hairspring. How it works and why it matters.
Venus calibreVenus caliber: history of the Swiss chronograph manufacturer, from the 175 and 178 calibers to the big-date 221, through to its legacy in the Chinese Seagull ST
Vertical clutchVertical clutch in chronographs: how axial engagement works, why it eliminates hand slipping, and how to distinguish it from horizontal clutch.
Vibrations per hourVibrations per hour (vph): what it is, how to read it on technical sheets, difference with Hz and oscillations, scale of common values from classical watchmakin
Vickers hardnessVickers hardness (HV) measures surface scratch resistance of cases and bezels. Values, DLC treatments, ceramic and hardened steel explained from the workbench.
Watch MechanicsWatch mechanics: constructive architectures, chronograph columns, clutches, skeletonization, perpetual calendars and micro-rotors explained by someone who works
Watch TerminologyWatchmaking technical glossary: lug-to-lug, unidirectional bezel, sandwich dial, micro-rotor, vph, flying tourbillon and other terms explained from the workbenc
WatchmakingTechnical watchmaking guide: movements, finishing, complications and materials explained by someone who has worked at the bench for fifty years.
Water resistanceWater resistance in watches: screw-down crown, monoblock case, ISO 6425, titanium and ceramic. Technical guide from Antonio Zichichi's workbench.
Widmanstätten PatternThe Widmanstätten structure is the iron-nickel crystalline lattice visible in cut and etched iron meteorites: unique, non-replicable, central to meteorite dials
World TimerThe World Time complication reads all 24 time zones simultaneously. Conceived by Louis Cottier in 1931, it works with rotating city rings and a 24-hour disc.
World TimerThe world timer displays the time in 24 time zones simultaneously. Invented by Louis Cottier in the 1930s, it differs from the GMT in structure and direct readi
World timer watchA world timer displays the time in 24 time zones simultaneously through a rotating ring with cities. Origin, function, and difference from GMT.
ZaratsuZaratsu is the Japanese transcription of Sallaz: mirror polishing technique on a flat disc that eliminates distortions and maintains crisp edges.

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