Glossary

Glossary · Terminology

291 terms

Acoustic complicationAcoustic complication in watchmaking: minute repeater, sonnerie, grande sonnerie and carillon. Technical differences, hammers, gongs and chiming logic.
Additive manufacturing3D printing in watchmaking: DMLS, SLM and Binder Jetting explained with technical differences, real applications on cases and documented weight reduction.
AluminumAluminum in watchmaking: anodization, aerospace alloys, copper-aluminum, Aeronith and SAXEM. Technical differences, real applications and material limits.
AnglageAnglage: manual beveling of plate and bridge edges in watchmaking. How it's executed, how to recognize it, and why it distinguishes true finishing from industri
Annual CalendarThe annual calendar automatically recognizes 30 and 31-day months and requires only one manual correction per year, at the end of February.
AntimagneticAntimagnetic in watchmaking: soft iron shielding versus non-magnetic components in silicon or Nivachron. Technical differences, METAS standards, and history fro
ApertureThe watch window: opening in the dial for date, jumping hour, or balance wheel. Types, mechanisms, and constructive differences explained from the bench.
Applied indicesApplied dial indices in watchmaking: fastening techniques, finishing variants, differences from printed indices. Technical bench reference.
ArchitectureArchitecture in watchmaking: how mainplates, bridges, pillars and modules define the internal structure of a movement. Technical guide with real examples.
Art Déco (watchmaking)Art Deco in watchmaking: geometric cases, sector dials, spider lugs, gadroons, and baguette cutting explained by someone who recognizes them at the workbench.
Automatic windingAutomatic winding in watchmaking: from Harwood's bumper rotor to tungsten microrotors. Bidirectional, unidirectional, Pellaton and Grinder systems explained.
AventurineAventurine in watchmaking: differences between artificial Murano glass and natural quartz, cutting techniques, Grand Feu and use in dials.
Balance springBalance spring: mechanical hairspring that regulates oscillation. From Nivarox to silicon, from Phillips curve to Rolex Syloxi. Technical guide.
Balance WheelBalance wheel, free-sprung, Nivachron and Parachrom hairsprings: how the regulatory heart of a mechanical movement works, explained from the workbench.
BarrelThe barrel is the energy reservoir of every mechanical movement. Parallel, series, or stacked: the configuration changes autonomy, torque, and thickness.
Belly CutBelly Cut — Ventral Section
Bevel gearBevel gear in watchmaking: transmits torque between non-parallel axes. Used in inclined dials, jumping spheres, conical tourbillons, and power reserve indicator
BezelFixed or rotating bezel, unidirectional or bidirectional: technical meaning, materials and real functions explained by a watchmaker with 50 years of bench exper
BezelWatch bezel guide: differences between fixed and rotating, unidirectional and bidirectional, materials from bakelite to Cerachrom ceramic. Technical guide.
BGW9BGW9 is the Super-LumiNova formulation with blue-green emission: differences from C3, quality grades and application methods on watches.
BicompaxBicompax: chronograph layout with only two sub-dials, usually small seconds and 30-minute totalizer. Origin, variants and differences from tricompax.
BidirectionalBidirectional in watchmaking: rotors, bezels and inner rings that operate in both directions. Technical differences, contexts of use and safety implications.
BioceramicBioceramic is Swatch's proprietary composite material used in the MoonSwatch: a hybrid of ceramic powders and bio-sourced polymers, lighter than steel.
BiretrogradeThe biretrograde is a complication with two independent retrograde hands that travel separate arcs and return to zero at the end of the cycle. Origins, mechanic
Black finishPVD, DLC, black polish, black rhodium, ceramic, and ultra-absorbent coatings: black finishes in watchmaking distinguished by process, hardness, and function.
Blue GoldBlue gold: gold alloy with iron fired in an oven for natural oxidation. Non-coated color, each piece unique. Technique developed by Andersen Genève.
BraceletWatch bracelet: integrated and interchangeable constructions, Oyster and Milanese links, deployant and quick-release adjustment systems explained from the workb
Breguet handsHands with pomme évidée and tapered point, designed by Abraham-Louis Breguet to read the time on guilloché dials. History, correct form and finishes.
Breguet numeralsBreguet numerals: thin Arabic digits with discreet serifs, codified by Abraham-Louis Breguet. Printed, applied, or engraved, they define the classic dial.
BridgeThe bridge in watch movements: structural function, materials, decorations and variants from finger bridge to flying tourbillon. Milano Straps Glossary.
BridgesWatch bridges: structural function, materials like German silver and titanium, Côtes de Genève finishes and skeletonization. Technical guide from a watchmaker.
BronzeBronze in watchmaking: CuSn8, CuAl8, copper-aluminum, and Bronze Gold alloys compared. Patina, corrosion resistance, and practical differences explained from th
Bronze GoldBronze Gold is Omega's patented alloy with 37.5% gold (9K), copper, palladium and gallium: warm bronze color without verdigris, stable brown patina over time.
CageCage in watchmaking: rotating tourbillon structure and antimagnetic Faraday shielding. Technical distinction, constructive variants and bench experience.
CalendarCalendar in watchmaking: differences between complete calendar, annual calendar, perpetual calendar, and secular perpetual calendar. How mechanisms work and whe
CalibreA caliber is the technical identity of a watch: it distinguishes in-house manufacture from derivative, measures frequency, hairspring and architecture. Complete
Calibre 321Caliber 321 Omega: column wheel chronograph derived from the Lemania 2310, heart of the lunar Speedmasters and benchmark of vintage watchmaking.
CamThe cam in watchmaking: how it works in chronographs, perpetual calendars, special escapements and display systems. Technical entry.
CaratsCarats in watchmaking: gold purity (fraction of 24) and gemstone weight (200 mg) are two distinct units. How gold alloys change from 9 to 24 carats.
CarbideCarbide in watchmaking: differences between tungsten carbide, titanium carbide and coatings. Technical uses in plates, rotors, bezels and cases.
CarbonForged carbon, carbon fiber, and DLC coating in watchmaking: technical differences, construction limits, and what to expect over time.
CarbonCarbon in watchmaking: forged, TPT, DLC, Carbonium and CVD springs explained by a watchmaker with fifty years of bench experience.
Carbon fiberCarbon fiber in watchmaking: differences between laminated, forged, and hybrid composites explained by someone who's been working at the bench for fifty years.
CertificationCOSC, METAS Master Chronometer, Poinçon de Genève, ISO 6425: a practical guide to watch certifications, what they actually test and where they fall short.
Certification standardWatchmaking certification standards: COSC, Poinçon de Genève, Qualité Fleurier, ISO 6425, Glashütte/SA and proprietary standards compared.
ChamplevéChamplevé: enameling technique in which metal is carved to create cavities then filled with vitreous enamel. Differences with cloisonné and Grand Feu.
ChronographChronograph: how the time-interval measuring mechanism works, column wheel, vertical and horizontal clutch, flyback and single-button explained from the bench.
Chronograph control mechanismColumn wheel, cam system, vertical clutch: how chronograph control mechanisms work and how they differ technically.
Chronograph pushersChronograph pushers: differences between pump pushers, piston-style, threaded pushers, and flush-mounted. Morphology, function, and history from the workshop.
ChronometerChronometer: technical guide to COSC certifications, METAS Master Chronometer and Superlative Chronometer, actual tolerances and differences between standards.
ChronometerChronometer in watchmaking: differences between COSC, ISO 3159, METAS and Superlative Chronometer. What each standard actually certifies and what tolerances mea
ClaspWatch clasp: differences between pin buckle, déployante, butterfly, and microadjustment systems. Technical guide from Antonio Zichichi's workbench.
Cloisonné enamelCloisonné enamel: decorative technique where soldered gold wires create cells filled with vitreous enamel and fired up to 50 times. Used on high-end watchmaking
Clous de ParisClous de Paris: a guilloché pattern of regular pyramids engraved on dials and plates. Technique, variants, and how to distinguish true guilloché from stamping.
CoatingWatch coating explained: PVD, DLC, CVD and AR differences by someone who works with them daily. Vickers hardness and long-term behavior.
Coaxial EscapementThe coaxial escapement is an invention by George Daniels from 1975, industrialized by Omega in 1999: it reduces friction and extends service intervals.
Column wheelThe column wheel coordinates chronograph start, stop, and reset with precise steps. How it works, why it is superior to the cam system, and where it is used.
Column WheelThe column wheel governs the start, stop, and reset of the chronograph with superior precision to cam systems. Technical explanation from the watchmaker's bench
Column WheelThe column wheel controls start, stop and reset of the chronograph via a stepped cylinder. Superior to the cam system for precision and reliability over time.
CompensationCompensation in watchmaking: tourbillon, thermally stable hairsprings, fusée-and-chain and oil-filled bellows explained by someone who has disassembled them on
ComplicationComplication in watchmaking: every mechanical function beyond hours, minutes and seconds. From calendars to chronographs, how they work and how they differ.
ConstructionConstruction in watchmaking: monolithic, sandwich, modular, and pillar. Case, dial, and movement structural logic explained from the bench.
ContrastContrast in watchmaking: how background, surfaces, and finishes interact to determine readability and aesthetics. From Antonio Zichichi's perspective.
CorrosionCorrosion in watches: differences between 316L, 904L, 316LVM, titanium grades 2 and 5, naval bronze, PREN rating and how to truly prevent it.
COSCCOSC certifies the precision of Swiss movements between −4 and +6 sec/day. How the test works, what it actually guarantees, and how it compares to METAS.
Côtes de GenèveCôtes de Genève: parallel wavy lines incised on movement plates and bridges. Aesthetic function, three main variants, no effect on performance.
Côtes de GenèveGeneva stripes: parallel abrasive lines on plates and bridges, a classic decoration of haute horlogerie. Technique, variants and difference from the Poinçon de
CrownThe watch crown: functions, positions, shapes and water-resistance systems explained by someone who has been taking them apart and putting them back together fo
CrystalSapphire, acrylic, flat or domed geometries, AR coating: everything you need to know about a watch crystal, explained from the bench.
DateDate complications in watchmaking: jumping date, big date, pointer date, retrograde, Panorama Date and quick-set explained by someone who has been taking them a
Deadbeat secondsDeadbeat seconds: the seconds hand snaps every second instead of sweeping. History, mechanisms, differences between deadbeat and jumping seconds explained from
DecorationCôtes de Genève, guillochage, perlage, snailing, gadroons: technical guide to the main decorative finishing techniques of watch movements and dials.
Degradé dialDegradé on dial: execution technique, gradient directions, compatible substrates, and differences between fumé, sandblast and sunburst. From the workbench.
Deployment claspDeployment clasp: variants, micro-adjustment and differences between single deployant, butterfly and friction clasp. Technical guide from a watchmaker with 50 y
DepthDepth in watchmaking: water resistance in meters or atm and three-dimensional visual construction of the dial. Two distinct concepts explained from the bench.
Dial Decorative TechniqueGrand feu, guilloché, plique-à-jour, urushi, PVD: the main decorative dial techniques explained by someone who recognises them at the bench.
Dial layoutDial layout in watchmaking: régulateur, bicompax, tricompax, panda and reverse-panda explained with technical precision by a watchmaker with 50 years of bench e
Dial optical effectDial optical effects in watchmaking: sunray, fumé, chatoyance, ombré, hand-hammered and Super Black explained by someone who recognizes them at the bench.
Dial TextureGuide to dial textures: guilloché, soleil, grénage, sandblasting, laser-etching. Technical differences explained by a watchmaker with 50 years at the bench.
Diamond-Like CarbonDLC (Diamond-Like Carbon): ultra-hard amorphous carbon coating applied in a PVD chamber to steel, titanium or gold. Hardness up to 5,000 HV, matte or polished b
Diamond-Like Carbon coatingDLC (Diamond-Like Carbon): ultra-hard amorphous carbon film deposited under vacuum on steel and titanium. Hardness up to 3500 HV, black finish, low friction.
DifferentialThe differential in watchmaking: how it works for dual oscillators, for winding, and for display. Technical distinction from resonance, proven examples.
DiscThe disc in watchmaking: a rotating component that replaces or integrates hands to indicate hours, dates, moonphases, and time zones. How it works and why it ma
DisplayDisplay in watchmaking: hour reading systems with hands, rotating discs, guichets, jumping hours and retrograde. Technical differences explained from the workbe
Dive WatchDive watch: technical structure, unidirectional bezel, helium valve, lume and the difference between a real tool and a desk diver. A watchmaker's guide.
Dive watchTechnical guide to dive watches: helium escape valve, unidirectional bezel, gaskets, pressure testing. From Antonio Zichichi's workbench.
Dive watchDive watch: ISO 6425, unidirectional bezel, helium escape valve and luminescence. Everything that distinguishes a true instrument from a water-resistant watch.
DLC coatingDLC (Diamond-Like Carbon): ultra-hard amorphous carbon coating applied to watch cases and components. Differences from PVD, durability and real limitations.
Dual crownDual crown in watchmaking: origins in compressor dive watches, technical operation, differences between inner bezel and regulation, use in modern calibers.
Dual EscapementDual escapement: three different architectures — Zenith, Grand Seiko, Lederer — with opposing construction logics. Technical entry from a watchmaker's workbench
Dual oscillatorThe dual oscillator uses two balance wheels to improve stability and precision. Technical analysis of UN-251, AP caliber 3132, and double spiral systems.
Dual time zone displayGMT traveller, GMT office, independent hand, time zone disc: all mechanical variants for reading a second time zone explained from the bench.
El PrimeroEl Primero is Zenith's 1969 5 Hz automatic chronograph caliber: measures the tenth of a second with central hand, column wheel and horizontal clutch.
EnamelGrand feu, champlevé, paillonné, plique-à-jour: dial enameling techniques explained with technical precision by a watchmaker.
EnamelingEnameling in watchmaking: grand feu, petit feu, cloisonné, champlevé, plique-à-jour and paillonné explained by someone who works with these dials every day.
End linkThe end link connects the bracelet to the case lugs. Solid or folded, male or female: everything that distinguishes a well-constructed bracelet.
EngravingGuide to watchmaking engraving: guilloché, tremblage, champlevé, flinqué, laser. Techniques, materials, and differences explained by a watchmaker.
Equation of timeThe equation of time shows the difference between true solar time and civil time, from −14 to +16 minutes: how the cam works and the marching version.
Escape wheelThe escape wheel regulates energy flow from the gear train to the balance wheel. How it works, how it is made, and how it evolves in modern escapements.
EscapementEscapement: how the mechanical escapement works, from classical types to Co-Axial, silicon, and constant force. Technical guide by a watchmaker.
FinishFinish in watchmaking: technical guide to sunray, fumé, opaline, Côtes de Genève, PVD, guillochage and every surface treatment on case, dial, and movement.
FinishingCôtes de Genève, perlage, guilloché, PVD: all watchmaking finishing techniques explained by those who know them from the workbench.
FinishingWatch finishes: perlage, anglage, Côtes de Genève, PVD, satin finishing. Technical guide from the workbench of a watchmaker with 50 years of experience.
FinishingTechnical guide to watchmaking finishing: CNC, guillochage, Grand Feu, skeletonization, composite materials. From the bench of Antonio Zichichi.
Finishing stripesCôtes de Genève, Glashütte Stripes, Moser Stripes: technical differences, origins, and execution methods of decorative striping in watch movements.
FKM — FluoroelastomerFKM — Fluoroelastomer
FlybackThe flyback is the chronograph complication that resets and restarts the hand with a single button press, without stopping the mechanism first.
FlybackThe flyback zeroes and restarts the chronograph in a single press while running. Origins, heart cam mechanism and construction variants.
Flyer GMTFlyer GMT: the local hour hand adjusts one hour at a time without moving the GMT hand. How it works and how it differs from caller GMT.
FlyingFlying tourbillon and flyback: two distinct meanings of the term flying in watchmaking, explained from a technical and historical perspective.
Flying TourbillonFlying tourbillon: cage suspended on one side only, without upper bridge. Origin Helwig 1920. Technical differences, orbital and inclined variants explained fro
Folding claspFolding clasp: history, variants and technical differences of the hinged closure for watch bracelets, from the single-sided Thirties to modern micro-adjustment
FrequencyFrequency in watchmaking: what Hz, vph, and alternations per hour mean, how they affect accuracy and chronographs, from 2.5 Hz to high-beat movements.
FrictionFriction in mechanical movements dissipates up to two-thirds of mainspring energy. How escapements, materials, and geometry reduce it.
Fumé DialFumé dial is a color gradient from center to edge: painted, Grand Feu enameled, or deposited on sapphire. Technique, variants, and aging behavior.
FunctionGuide to watch functions: hacking seconds, flyback, quickset date, GMT, pulsometer. Technical distinctions and origins of use explained from the workbench.
Gear trainThe gear train transmits energy from the mainspring to the escapement. Variants: flying train, split train, three-quarter plate, constant force.
Geneva SealThe Geneva Hallmark is a cantonal certification since 1886 that certifies finishing, construction, and Genevan origin of movement and case. It is not a self-cer
GlashütteGlashütte: the Saxon school of German haute horlogerie. Three-quarter plate, parallel striations, swan-neck and flying tourbillon explained from the bench.
Glashütte finishingStriping, three-quarter plate, swan-neck regulator, and flying tourbillon: the constructive and decorative techniques that define the Glashütte watchmaking scho
Glashütte traditionThree-quarter plate, Streifenschliff striping, swan neck regulator, and flying tourbillon: the constructive and decorative techniques of the Saxon watchmaking s
GMTGMT traveller vs GMT office: the technical difference between the two mechanisms, how they work, and when it makes sense to choose one or the other.
GMT complicationGMT traveller, GMT office, dual time: the technical differences between complications that show two time zones on a wristwatch.
GongThe gong is the vibrating wire that produces sound in minute repeaters and sonneries. How it works, how it's tuned, and why the case changes everything.
Grand FeuGrand feu: enameling technique at 800-900 °C with multiple firings, extremely hard glassy enamel and colors stable for decades. A technical note from the bench.
Grand Feu EnamelGrand feu enamel: firing technique at 800-900 °C, multiple firings, permanent vitreous finish. Differences from petit feu, cloisonné, flinqué, and fumé.
Grand feu enamelingHigh-fire enameling technique that fires vitreous enamel above 800 °C on watch dials. Hard, luminous, difficult: explained by someone who works with watches eve
Grande SonnerieGrande Sonnerie: the acoustic complication that chimes hours and quarters automatically en passant. How it works, difference with Petite Sonnerie and constructi
Gravity (effect on the regulating organ)The effect of gravity on the balance wheel and hairspring alters the rate of a mechanical watch. How it works and how the tourbillon compensates for it.
GuillochéGuilloché is a geometric engraving on metal executed with a rose engine lathe. Learn the main patterns, the difference between hand and mechanical, and the flin
Hack secondsThe hack seconds locks the balance wheel by pulling the crown, allowing synchronization to the exact second. How it works and why it really matters.
HackingHacking stops the balance wheel by pulling the crown to synchronize time to the exact second. Military origins, mechanics, and caliber comparisons.
Hacking SecondsHacking stops the balance wheel when the crown is pulled out, allowing synchronization to the exact second with an external time reference.
HairspringHairspring: what is the balance spring, how it works, differences between materials (silicon, Parachrom, Nivachron) and geometries (flat, cylindrical, Breguet o
HairspringThe hairspring regulates the balance wheel oscillation in mechanical watches. Materials, geometries and in-house production: complete technical guide.
HandWatch hand: shapes, technical functions, manual finishing and role in GMT complications. Practical guide from the bench.
HandThe hand is the indicator organ that translates the caliber's motion into dial reading: hours, minutes, seconds, GMT, date, rattrapante. Complete technical guid
HardnessHardness in watchmaking: Mohs and Vickers scales, DLC and PVD coatings, ceramic, Super Titanium and tungsten carbide explained from a technical perspective.
Helium Escape ValveThe helium escape valve discharges helium accumulated in the case during saturation diving. How it works, manual and automatic variants, when you really need it
Helium escape valveThe helium valve allows the escape of gas accumulated in the case during saturation diving. How it works and when you really need it.
High watchmakingHigh horology: in-house movements, Côtes de Genève, Poinçon de Genève, hi-beat frequencies, and complications. What truly distinguishes an excellent caliber.
Hornback — Dorsal CutHornback — Back Cut
Hour markerHour marker: types, materials and dial readability. Baton, applied indices, Breguet numerals: technical differences explained by a watchmaker who restores them.
Hour markersHour markers: shapes, application techniques, luminescent materials, and differences between applied and printed indices. Technical watchmaking reference.
Hybrid movementHybrid movement in watchmaking: technical differences between meca-quartz (VK63, VK64) and Spring Drive Grand Seiko, with bench analysis.
IndicatorIndicator in watchmaking: hand, disc, sphere or arc that translates an internal state of the movement into readable information. Types, functions and technical
IndicesWatch indices: difference between applied and printed, historical shapes, luminescent materials from radium to Super-LumiNova. Technical guide from the workshop
IntegratedIntegrated bracelet in watchmaking: what it is, how to distinguish it from faux integrated, and why the same logic applies to movements with chronographs or cal
Jumping HourJumping hour: the complication that displays the time in a window with an instantaneous change every 60 minutes. History, mechanism and variants explained from
Lacquered dialLacquer on dial: from Japanese urushi to Vietnamese Sơn Mài, from Rolex Stella dials to vintage spidering. Technique, history, and pathologies.
Laser engravingLaser engraving in watchmaking: ablation, titanium oxidation, DMLS and SLM. Distinct techniques with different results and permanence, explained from the workbe
LeatherTechnical guide to watchmaking leathers: calf, nubuck, Shell Cordovan, alligator, Saffiano, Epsom and tanneries. From Antonio Zichichi's counter.
LegibilityWatch readability: how Super-LumiNova, anti-reflective coating, Panda contrast, and dial geometry work to ensure legibility in every condition.
LinksMetal bracelet links: beads-of-rice, Jubilee, H-link, screw-pins, and ladder constructions. Technical history and design differences explained from the bench.
LugWatch lugs: geometries, types (straight, curved, floating, lugless, integrated) and lug-to-lug measurement explained by a watchmaker with 50 years of bench expe
Lug attachmentThe watch lug attachment is the system connecting strap or bracelet to the case: spring bars, quick-release, T-bars, bows, and fixed lugs explained from the ben
Lug WidthLug Width — Watch Strap Size Guide
Lug-to-lug distanceLug-to-lug distance: the measurement in mm between the tips of a case's lugs. Often more decisive than diameter for wrist comfort.
LumeLume: technical guide to photoluminescent materials in watches, from Super-LumiNova BGW9 to Chromalight, with application, formulas, and history.
LumeNocturnal luminescence in watches: from radium to Super-LumiNova, Chromalight and Globolight. Physical principles, formulations and technical differences explai
Luminescence in watchmakingWatch luminescence: differences between Super-LumiNova, Chromalight, tritium and luminescent printing. Applications on indices, hands and sandwich dials.
Magnetic fieldMagnetic field is the most common cause of inaccuracy in mechanical movements. ISO 764 standard, silicon balance springs, Faraday cage and demagnetization expla
Magnetic resistanceMagnetic resistance in mechanical watches: soft iron inner case, paramagnetic hairsprings, METAS certification and how to recognize a magnetized caliber.
MainplateThe mainplate is the structural foundation of every mechanical movement. Materials, finishes, and architectures explained by someone who has worked on calibers
Manual WindingManual winding in watchmaking: how it works, why it affects calibre thickness, finishing and daily wear experience.
MarkingWatch marking: technical guide to abbreviations, hallmarks, and engravings on dial, case, and caseback — origin, materials, military use, and historic methods.
Master ChronometerMaster Chronometer is the METAS certification that tests the finished watch for accuracy, resistance to 15,000 gauss, and water resistance. More stringent than
Master Chronometer CertificationMaster Chronometer certification (METAS) tests the assembled watch: precision 0/+5 s/day, 15,000 gauss resistance, water resistance verified.
Matte finishMatte finishing in watchmaking: sandblasting, microblasting, vapor-blasting and glass bead. Technical differences, history from the Submariner 5513 to modern to
MechanicalMechanical movement in watchmaking: barrel, regulating assembly, amplitude, manual and automatic winding, complications. Technical explanation from the workbenc
MechanismWatchmaking mechanism: column wheel, jumping hour, tourbillon, Co-Axial and retrograde explained by someone who has been disassembling them on the bench for 50
Métiers d'ArtMétiers d'art in watchmaking: Grand Feu enameling, guillochage, hand engraving, cloisonné and lacquer. Artisanal techniques that cannot be delegated to machines
Micro-rotorThe micro-rotor is an automatic winding rotor integrated into the movement's plane: thinner, often in platinum or tungsten, visible from the caseback.
Minute RepeaterThe minute repeater strikes hours, quarters, and minutes on demand through hammers and gongs. How it works, how to distinguish it from sonneries, and what reall
Minute RepeaterThe minute repeater chimes hours, quarters and minutes on demand through hammers and gongs. How it works and how it differs from the grande sonnerie and quarter
Mirror polishingMirror polishing, black polishing, and Zaratsu: related techniques, different names. A technical guide to recognizing them on cases and movements.
ModuleA module in watchmaking is an autonomous mechanical structure added to a base movement for complex functions. Differences between modular and integrated, with r
Moon phaseThe moon phase is a mechanical complication that replicates the synodic cycle of 29.53 days through a rotating disc, with precision ranging from 1 day every 2 y
MovementWatch movement architecture, construction and finishing: mainplates, bridges, micro-rotor, skeletonization and inverted mounting explained from the bench.
Movement finishingTechnical guide to watchmaking movement finishing: anglage, perlage, Côtes de Genève, black polishing, snailing and galvanic coatings explained from the workben
Newlife®Newlife®
NickelNickel in watchmaking: from austenitic alloys to LIGA components, from meteorite dials to contact allergies. Complete technical entry.
Night legibilityNighttime visibility in watchmaking: photoluminescent materials like Super-LumiNova and Chromalight, skeletonized dials and flying tourbillons explained from th
NivachronNivachron is the balance spring in niobium-titanium alloy developed by Nivarox for Swatch Group: magnetic resistant, temperature stable.
NumeralsWatch numerals explained: Arabic, Roman, California dial, and Breguet. Differences in readability, history, and technical use explained from the workbench.
Oscillating weightThe oscillating mass charges the mainspring in automatic watches. Central rotor, microrotor, peripheral: technical differences and materials explained by a watc
OxidationOxidation in watchmaking: thermal treatments on titanium, patina on bronze, rhodium anti-oxidation and historical cases like the Daytona Patrizzi explained from
Painted dialPainted watch dials: from Credor porcelain fired in the kiln to Genevan enamel with Fondant de Genève, through to metal miniature painting. Techniques compared.
PalladiumPalladium in watchmaking: its role in proprietary alloys by Omega, Breguet, Audemars Piguet and in Bulk Metallic Glass. Technical function, not decorative.
Panda dialPanda dial: light background with dark counters on chronographs. Functional origins in the 1960s, reverse panda variant, technical differences and vintage colle
Pare-chuteThe parachute is the balance wheel shock absorption system patented by Breguet in 1790. Technical guide from the classic to De Bethune's triple parachute.
PatentPatents in watchmaking document real technical solutions: from shock-resistant balance wheels to secret metal alloys. A voice from the workbench.
Peripheral rotorThe peripheral rotor is the automatic oscillating mass mounted on the edge of the plate. It reduces thickness and frees the view of the mechanism from the caseb
PerlagePerlage is a watchmaking finish of overlapping micro-circles on plates and bridges, executed with a rotating tool. Both aesthetic and practical function.
Perpetual CalendarThe perpetual calendar handles irregular months and leap years without manual corrections until 2100. How it works, variants, and differences with the annual ca
Platinum950 platinum in watchmaking: density, proprietary alloys, micro-rotors, visual markers and differences compared to white gold. Technical bench note.
PolishingPolishing in watchmaking: Zaratsu, sandblasting, Geneva stripes and bevels. Techniques, optical differences and how to spot a hasty refinish.
Power ReservePower reserve: what it is, how it's measured and how the main indication systems work in modern mechanical calibers.
PrecisionWatch precision: COSC certifications, Master Chronometer METAS, tourbillon, remontoir and free-sprung balance explained by a horologist working at the bench.
Proprietary gold alloysProprietary gold alloys in watchmaking: Moonshine Gold, Sedna, Magic Gold, Everose, Honey Gold. Compositions, hardnesses, and real differences explained from th
Proprietary technologyProprietary technology in watchmaking: Spring Drive, Co-Axial, LIGA, DIAMonSIL, plasma ceramic. How to recognize and evaluate them without relying on marketing
PusherThe pusher in watchmaking controls chronographs, GMTs and complications. Differences between single-pusher, two-pusher, flyback and slide pusher explained from
PusherThe pusher is the external button on the case that commands movement functions: chronograph, calendar correction, time zone. Types, shapes, and mechanisms expla
QualityWatchmaking quality: COSC, Poinçon de Genève, Qualité Fleurier, Élaboré and Soignée grades explained by a watchmaker with fifty years of bench experience.
QuartzQuartz in watchmaking: piezoelectric crystal, frequencies, meca-quartz, Spring Drive, thermocompensated quartz, and structural uses like aventurine and tiger's
Quick ReleaseQuick-release allows you to change straps or bracelets without tools. How it works, mechanical variants, and differences between proprietary systems and univers
Quick-release systemQuick-release systems allow strap changes without tools. Technical guide to proprietary systems: One Click, EasX-CHANGE, QuickSwitch, drilled lugs.
RattrapanteThe rattrapante is a complication with two overlapping separable hands: it measures split times without interrupting total timing. Technical guide.
Recycled steelRecycled steel in watchmaking: from remelting processes to proprietary alloys like Lucent Steel, eSteel and PuReSteel. Properties, certifications and technical
RegulationWatchmaking regulation: from inertia screws to goose-neck regulator, from hacking to tourbillon. Technical guide by Antonio Zichichi for Milano Straps.
RegulatorThe regulator in watchmaking: dial layout with hours, minutes, and seconds separated, and fine-tuning devices like the swan-neck. Two distinct concepts.
ResistanceWatch resistance: water, scratches, magnetism, and shocks. Materials, coatings, and certifications explained by a watchmaker with 50 years at the bench.
RetrogradeThe retrograde mechanism: how the snail cam works, why the hand snaps back to zero in a flash, and where these movements wear over time.
Rose engine latheThe rose engine is the historic machine that produces guilloché: how it works, why it is unreproducible by CNC, and what distinguishes true artisanal work.
Rotating bezelRotating bezel: functions, types (unidirectional, bidirectional, internal) and materials explained by someone who has worked on vintage and modern watches for t
Rotating elementRotating element in watchmaking: tourbillon, unidirectional bezel, GMT disks and satellite hours. Three categories, different constructive logics explained from
RotorThe rotor is the oscillating mass of the automatic movement. Central, micro-rotor, or peripheral: technical differences, materials, and history from 1923 to tod
RubberVulcanized latex, HNBR and FKM: technical differences, history and practical limits of elastomers in watchmaking explained from the bench.
Sandblasted finishSandblasted finishing in watchmaking: how sandblasting works, the difference between sandblasted and microblasted, uses on case, dial, and movement.
Sandwich dialThe sandwich dial is a two-layer construction in which the lume is applied to the lower disc and visible through the cutouts of the upper one.
Sandwich dialThe sandwich dial is a two-layer construction: the luminescent material lives on the bottom, visible through the cutouts of the upper layer. Real depth, not sim
Sapphire crystalSapphire crystal in watchmaking: geometries, AR treatments, machining and domed, double-domed, box-domed variants and transparent case back explained from the w
Sapphire crystalSynthetic sapphire in watchmaking: hardness, domed and box domed profiles, AR coating, transparent casebacks and dials. All from a watchmaker's bench.
Satin finishingSatin finishing in watchmaking: techniques, differences between straight graining, diffuse, radial and microblast finishes, and how to recognize well-executed f
ScaleWatch scale: from tachymeter to telemeter, pulsometer, and power reserve. How they work and how to read them on the dial.
ScaleWatch scales explained: tachometric, telemetric, pulsometric, decimal, GMT. How they work and where they are located on dial, bezel, and rehaut.
Scratch resistanceMohs scale, Vickers, DLC, ceramic, Tegiment, Duratect: how scratch resistance is measured and achieved in modern and vintage watches.
Screw-down crownThe screw-down crown seals the case stem tube with mechanical threading. How it works, why it's critical, and what to check on a vintage watch.
SealSeal in watchmaking: hermetic case sealing and qualitative movement certification. Technical differences, historical systems, and the Poinçon de Genève.
Second time referenceGMT, Dual Time, World Timer, equation of time, sidereal time: the technical differences between complications that display a second time reference.
Second time zone displayGMT traveller, GMT office and dual time are not synonyms: technical differences between complications for reading a second time zone.
SecondsSeconds in watchmaking: deadbeat, retrograde, hacking, sub-seconds and regulator. Technical guide to the different seconds displays in mechanical movements.
Seconds handSeconds hand in watchmaking: hacking, deadbeat, zero-reset, stepping and sweep. Functions, mechanisms and differences between mechanical and quartz movements.
Sector dialThe sectored dial divides the surface into distinct concentric zones for hours, minutes, and seconds. Art Deco origin, function of rapid readability.
SeikoSeiko: Spring Drive, Zaratsu, NH35, Ever-Brilliant Steel, and Dual Impulse Escapement explained from the workbench of a watchmaker with 50 years of experience.
SellitaSellita: Swiss ebauche manufacturer, alternative to ETA with SW200, SW300, SW500 calibers and D1–D4 finishing levels. Everything you need to know.
Shock AbsorberShock absorber in watches: from Incabloc and KIF systems to movement suspension. Technique, history and practical differences explained from the bench.
Shock protectionThree levels of shock protection in watches: balance pivot, movement suspension, and case geometry. Technical differences explained from the workbench.
SiliconSilicon in watchmaking: hairsprings, escapements and MEMS wafers. Technical advantages, limitations and applications in movements by Rolex, Patek, Omega, GP and
Single handThe single hand indicates hours and minutes with one index, without a minute hand or second hand. How it works and what it requires from the movement.
Single-pusher chronographSingle-pusher chronograph: one button for start, stop, and reset. History, column wheel mechanism and differences from the two-pusher.
SkeletonizationSkeletonization in watchmaking: removal of material from mainplate and bridges to reveal the movement. Explained: the difference between skeletonized and open-w
SkeletonizedSkeletonized in watchmaking: technical difference with open-worked, how plate skeletonization is performed, where it applies to rotors and bridges. Glossary ent
Skeletonized dialSkeletonized dial in watchmaking: difference from skeletonized movement, material removal techniques, structural and finishing implications.
SnailingSnailing is a spiral finishing technique incised into metal, used on wheels, plates, and dials. How it's executed and how to recognize it at the bench.
SpeedmasterOmega Speedmaster: history of calibers 321 and 3861, Alpha hands, Dot Over Ninety, tropical dials and NASA qualification for space EVA.
Spring barsSpring bars secure the watch strap to the lugs. Technical guide on types, materials, drilled lugs, and quick-release systems.
Spring DriveSpring Drive: Grand Seiko's hybrid movement with quartz electromagnetic brake, battery-free. Accuracy down to ±20 seconds/year in the 9RB2 UFA caliber.
Stainless steelStainless steel in watchmaking: from 316L to 904L, proprietary alloys like Ever-Brilliant, O-MEGASTEEL, Lucent Steel, Damascus steel and DLC coatings explained
Stone dialNatural stone watch dials: lapis lazuli, malachite, meteorite, opal. Technique, fragility, machining and differences among the minerals most used in watchmaking
StrapStrap in watchmaking: types, quick-release attachment systems, NATO origins, Bund, rally and Tropic. Technical guide from the bench of a watchmaker with 50 year
SubdialsCounters in watches: what are registers and subdials, tricompax and bicompax layouts, panda dial, rattrapante. Technical glossary by Antonio Zichichi.
SubdialsSubdials in chronographs: differences between tricompax and bicompax, azurage finishing, panda and reverse panda effects, position and readability.
Sunburst finishingSunburst finishing is a radial working of the dial that changes in tone and reflectivity with the viewing angle. How it works and how to recognize it.
Sunray finishSunray finish: radial striations engraved or brushed on the dial that change color with the angle of light. Differences between sunray brushed, guilloché, and f
Super-LumiNovaSuper-LumiNova: what it is, how it works, differences between BGW9, C1, X1, X2 variants and how it's applied to dials. Technical guide from the workbench.
SupersonnerieSupersonnerie is the acoustic system patented by Audemars Piguet that mounts gongs on a soundboard to amplify minute repeaters and chiming complications.
Surface depositionPVD, CVD, and ALD are three vapor deposition processes used in watchmaking to coat cases, dials, and components. Technical differences and results compared.
Surface treatmentTechnical guide to surface treatments in watchmaking: PVD, DLC, anodizing, thermal oxidation, anti-scratch and AR treatments. Real differences explained from th
Swing SystemThe Swing System is the proprietary escapement of Nomos Glashütte, with a blue aluminum-niobium hairspring and six-position regulation, produced entirely in-hou
SynchronizationSynchronization in watchmaking: hacking, stop-seconds, zero-reset, GPS, and resonance. How they work and why they matter for daily accuracy.
SystemIn watchmaking, 'system' indicates a patented mechanical solution: from IWC's Pellaton to Rolex's Ringlock, to Ressence's ROCS. Technical entry.
SystemTechnical entry on patented watchmaking systems: Ressence ROCS, Nomos Swing System, Formex Case Suspension, ZRC Crown Protection and others.
Tachymeter scaleThe tachymetric scale converts time measured by the chronograph into average speed. How it works, where it's located, and what distinguishes the main types.
Tanning — TannageTannage — Tanning
TaperTaper — Strap Narrowing
TapisserieTapisserie: the engraved motif on the Royal Oak dial since 1972. Pantograph technique, three variants (Petite, Grande, Mega) and real optical function explained
Technical ceramicTechnical ceramics in watchmaking: zirconium oxide, alumina, Cerachrom, Ceratanium, Magic Gold. Properties, manufacturing processes and technical variants expla
Technical ceramicTechnical ceramics in watchmaking: sintered material from zirconium oxide or alumina, homogeneous throughout, scratch-resistant and hypoallergenic. Differences
Thermal compensationThermal compensation in watchmaking: bimetallic balance wheels, silicon hairsprings, thermocompensated quartz and bellows in fluid movements. Complete technical
ThicknessWatch thickness depends on the caliber, rotor type, and gear train arrangement. How it's measured and what really determines it.
Three-quarter plateThe three-quarter plate is the typical construction solution of Glashütte: a single sheet in German silver with Saxon finishing that stiffens the movement.
Time ZoneGMT traveller, GMT office, worldtimer, 24-hour bezel: time zone complications explained with the technical logic of bench regulation.
Time Zone ComplicationTime zone function in watchmaking: GMT traveller, GMT office, worldtimer, caller-style and coupled GMT. Real mechanical differences explained from the counter.
TimingTiming in watchmaking: from countdown bezels to flyback chronographs, from eccentric timing screws to resonance. Technical guide entry by entry.
TitaniumTitanium in watchmaking: grades, alloys, heat treatments, PVD, CVD and acoustic properties. Technical guide from a watchmaker with 50 years at the bench.
TourbillonThe tourbillon in watchmaking: origin, function, flying and multi-axis variants. Technical explanation from someone who knows them from the bench.
Unconventional time displaySatellites, fluids, three-armed hands: alternative mechanical systems to the classic hand for telling time. Technical glossary Milano Straps.
Unidirectional bezelThe unidirectional bezel rotates only counterclockwise for diving safety: if struck, the time can only decrease. Mechanism, variants, and ISO 6425 logic.
ValjouxValjoux: history and technique of chronograph calibers from the 23 of 1916 to the 7750, with variants, architectures and modern derivatives. A guide from the be
Variable inertia balance wheelThe variable inertia balance wheel regulates frequency by shifting movable masses on the rim, without touching the hairspring. How it works and why it matters.
Venus calibreVenus caliber: history of the Swiss chronograph manufacturer, from the 175 and 178 calibers to the big-date 221, through to its legacy in the Chinese Seagull ST
Vertical clutchVertical clutch in chronographs: how axial engagement works, why it eliminates hand slipping, and how to distinguish it from horizontal clutch.
Vickers hardnessVickers hardness (HV) measures surface scratch resistance of cases and bezels. Values, DLC treatments, ceramic and hardened steel explained from the workbench.
Watch MechanicsWatch mechanics: constructive architectures, chronograph columns, clutches, skeletonization, perpetual calendars and micro-rotors explained by someone who works
Watch TerminologyComplete watch glossary: lug-to-lug, sandwich dial, VPH, GADA, flying tourbillon and other technical terms explained by a watchmaker.
WatchmakingTechnical watchmaking guide: movements, finishing, complications and materials explained by someone who has worked at the bench for fifty years.
Water resistanceWater resistance in watches: screw-down crown, monoblock case, ISO 6425, titanium and ceramic. Technical guide from Antonio Zichichi's workbench.
Widmanstätten PatternThe Widmanstätten structure is the iron-nickel crystalline lattice visible in cut and etched iron meteorites: unique, non-replicable, central to meteorite dials
World TimerThe World Time complication reads all 24 time zones simultaneously. Conceived by Louis Cottier in 1931, it works with rotating city rings and a 24-hour disc.
ZaratsuZaratsu is the Japanese transcription of Sallaz: mirror polishing technique on a flat disc that eliminates distortions and maintains crisp edges.

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