Glossary · Terminology

El Primero

Definition

El Primero is the name of the integrated automatic chronograph caliber presented by Zenith in January 1969, contested with Heuer-Breitling-Hamilton and Seiko for the claim of the world's first automatic chronograph. The technical feature that still distinguishes it today is not merely its automatic nature: it's the frequency. The caliber beats at 36,000 hourly alternations, or 5 Hz, double the conventional standard for an automatic. At that frequency, the central chronograph hand completes a full sweep of the dial in ten seconds, not sixty: each tick represents one-tenth of a second, readable to the naked eye on the dial without aids. Few series movements have ever offered this resolution so directly.

The chronograph operation is entrusted to a column wheel paired with a horizontal clutch. The combination ensures a sharp start, precise stop, and zero return without bounce. Anyone who has disassembled many movements knows that the wrist feel of a column wheel with horizontal clutch is recognizable: the pushers yield differently compared to a cam system, with less slop and more uniform resistance throughout the stroke.

The caliber nearly disappeared: with the arrival of quartz, Zenith was among Swiss manufacturers instructed to dispose of mechanical component stocks. Charles Vermot, master watchmaker of the workshop, hid tools, technical drawings, and spare parts under the roof of the Le Locle factory. When Rolex sought a movement for the new Daytona in 1988, Zenith was able to respond because those materials had survived. Rolex adopted the El Primero in caliber 4030, but lowered the frequency to 28,800 vph and modified some finishes to align with internal standards: that version remained in Daytonas until 2000, when the proprietary caliber 4130 took its place.

The line of descent within Zenith developed through calibers 400, 3600, and 3620. Caliber 400 reintroduces silicon for the escape wheel and anchor, 3600 maintains the tenth-second hand at center, 3620 SK adds a window on the skeletonized section that allows viewing the anchor at work. Hublot produced the HUB4700 starting from the same basic architecture, with silicon escapement and fifty-hour power reserve. The three enameled counters in gray, anthracite, and blue that appear on the Chronomaster are a direct reference to the dial of the original 1969 A386 model.

From the bench, a clarification: not all watches citing El Primero in the name mount the same caliber. Always verify the caliber number before assuming the frequency or chronograph configuration.

Frequently asked questions

Why does the El Primero measure tenths of a second while most chronographs stop at fifths?

The frequency of 36,000 vph (5 Hz) allows the central hand to complete a full revolution in ten seconds rather than sixty. Each division on the dial therefore represents 0.1 seconds. At 28,800 vph, the same hand takes twelve seconds to complete a revolution: the resolution drops to one fifth of a second.

What is the difference between the original 1969 El Primero calibre and the current calibre 400?

The calibre 400 retains the column wheel, the horizontal clutch and the 5 Hz frequency of the original 3019 PHC. The main differences are the use of silicon for the escape wheel and pallet fork, which eliminates lubrication at those critical points, and an open rotor with Côtes de Genève décor in place of the original full rotor.

The next step

The right strap isn't chosen. It is built, together.

From the atelier appointment to delivery, every step is made for those who know that things done well take time. Rare leathers, one piece at a time, eighteen months of warranty.

Request an appointment →

Casati Milano · Via XX Settembre 15, Milan · by appointment only

The atelier's website: casatimilano.com

Updated on · by Antonio Zichichi