Glossary · Terminology
Recycled steel
Definition
Recycled steel in watchmaking is not a concession to green fashion: it is a material that, when worked properly, matches mechanical performance with virgin steel and in some cases surpasses it in hardness and surface brilliance. The difference compared to mass industry lies in supply chain control and certification of provenance.
The basic process is remelting scrap in an electric arc furnace. The result depends on the purity of incoming scrap and the quality of remelting. Thyssen Krupp certifies its PuReSteel as 100% recycled, sourced from decommissioned merchant ships, and declares the same mechanical specifications as virgin steel. Alpina and Cedric Bellon use it for cases and buckles with full source traceability. Panatere goes further: two solar furnaces in La Chaux-de-Fonds melt scrap using photovoltaic energy, virtually eliminating emissions from the melting phase. This steel ends up in the cases of the Pragma P1.
Chopard developed a proprietary path. Lucent Steel, introduced in 2019 with the Alpine Eagle, starts from a minimum of 80% recycled material and reaches 85% in the A223 variant. The alloy is intentionally harder than standard 316L and 904L steels, therefore more difficult to work with: it requires dedicated tools and longer processing times. In return, the remelting process produces a crystalline structure that reflects light differently, with luminosity that shifts between polished and satin surfaces. It is not a coating effect: it comes from the composition of the alloy itself. Since 2023, Chopard uses it on all steel production.
Panerai takes a different approach with eSteel: steel scrap up to 95%, with a Brunito variant that adds an artificially aged PVD treatment. The effect is a dark, worn patina, similar to stone-washing on textiles. The EcoPangaea case—steel sourced from Mike Horn's boat hull—belongs to the same narrative logic: traceability as added value.
From the workbench, one thing you don't read in technical sheets: high-quality recycled steel is more sensitive to process variations in finishing. A satin surface on Lucent Steel requires different abrasives than 316L. Those who work the case know it immediately. It's a detail that separates brands that control production from those who simply buy a certificate.
Frequently asked questions
Is Chopard's Lucent Steel A223 really more brilliant than 316L, or is it just marketing?
It is not just marketing. The A223 alloy has a different crystalline structure, the result of its specific composition and remelting process. The way light is reflected differs from standard 316L. This is verifiable to the eye on polished surfaces placed side by side. The difficulty of machining it — dedicated tools, longer processing times — confirms that the composition is genuinely different, not just a rebranding.
Does recycled steel hold up in the same way as virgin steel in terms of corrosion resistance and durability?
If the remelting is controlled and the incoming scrap is clean, yes. PuReSteel by Thyssen Krupp is certified to the same specifications as virgin steel. The risk with low-quality scrap is contamination of the alloy. This is why traceability of the source is not a minor detail: it is the guarantee that the declared mechanical properties match the actual material.
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