Technical Archive

Nomos Glashütte
Tangente 173— lug 18mm

Nomos Glashütte Tangente 173: 18mm strap. Alligator, box calf, shell cordovan and rubber, cut and stitched in Milano. Choose your leather.

Tangente Gangreserve Anthrazit

Artisanal Note

"This model requires a precise 18mm lug width to preserve the original sartorial balance."

Technical Specifications

Nomos Glashütte 173
Lug Width
18 mm

The essential strap measurement.

Browse 18mm straps →
Reference

173

Movement

Nomos Glashütte caliber Delta Hours, Minutes, Small Seconds | Date | Power Reserve Indicator

The Heritage

The Tangente represents one of Nomos Glashütte's main models, characterized by the minimalist Bauhaus design. It features the in-house Delta caliber with hour, minute, small seconds, date, and power reserve indications. The lugs measure 18mm in width.

FAQ

What is the lug width of the Nomos Glashütte Tangente 173?

The lug width of the Nomos Glashütte Tangente 173 is 18mm. This measurement must be verified with precision using a digital calliper, measuring the internal distance between the lug attachment points on the case. Do not confuse this with the strap thickness or the external diameter of the lug: an 18mm lug width is exceptionally rare and requires straps specifically designed for this measurement.

Which strap is recommended for the Nomos Glashütte Tangente 173?

For the Tangente 173, alligator leather with vegetable tanning in neutral tones (black, dark brown, burgundy) is primarily recommended to preserve the Bauhaus aesthetic of the dial. Alternatively, high-quality calf leather with natural patina, grey or beige fabric NATO for sporty use, or FKM rubber for moisture resistance. The choice depends on intended use: formal contexts favour alligator; casual wear suggests NATO or rubber options.

How do I change the strap on my Nomos Glashütte Tangente 173?

The strap of the Tangente 173 is changed using a spring bar removal tool. Position the watch with the case resting downwards, carefully insert the tapered end of the tool under the spring bar from one side, press towards the centre to release the spring, then extract the old strap. Insert the new strap by aligning the holes and repositioning the spring bar until it clicks into place. The procedure requires delicacy to avoid scratching the stainless steel lugs.

Does the Nomos Glashütte Tangente 173 accept aftermarket 18mm straps?

Yes, the Tangente 173 accepts aftermarket 18mm straps provided they are correctly dimensioned. However, the rarity of this lug width means that compatibility with generic standard straps (22mm, 20mm, 19mm) is not guaranteed. By contacting specialised manufacturers such as milanostraps.it, you can find artisanal straps manufactured specifically for this measurement, with customisation options available.

What is the lifespan of an alligator leather strap for the Nomos Glashütte Tangente 173?

A high-quality alligator strap subjected to vegetable tanning has a lifespan of 5-10 years with regular wear and ordinary maintenance. Durability depends on wear frequency, environmental humidity, and conservation practices. An alligator strap ages positively by developing patina and softness, unlike rubber which degrades through UV oxidation and NATO textiles which wear mechanically through friction. To extend useful life, periodic rotation with other straps and occasional cleaning with a damp cloth are recommended.