Almanacco del Cinturino

Lucent Steel

Lucent Steel is a proprietary stainless steel alloy developed by Chopard, identified internally with the code A223. It is not reformulated 316L steel: it is a distinct alloy, obtained by melting recycled material at higher temperatures than standard steelmaking processes, and the metallurgical result is measurable. Hardness is approximately 50% higher than conventional stainless steel, abrasion resistance is significantly greater, and light reflection has a cold, almost mineral quality that visually resembles white gold or palladium more than traditional steel. It is not a surface effect: it is the crystal structure of the alloy itself that produces that luminosity.

Chopard introduced the alloy in 2019 with the first Alpine Eagle series. Since then the composition has been refined: the most recent versions declare 85% certified recycled material. Since 2023 the house has adopted Lucent Steel as the standard material for all its steel models, from the L.U.C line — including L.U.C XPS and L.U.C Strike One in selected editions — to the Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph. The fact that it is also used in L.U.C movements, traditionally constructive and not oriented toward displaying case material, says something about the manufacture's confidence in its workability: the A223 is difficult to mill and finish, and requires tools and cutting parameters different from standard steel.

The most recognizable optical characteristic in Alpine Eagle versions is the contrast between polished and satin-brushed surfaces: the brushed surfaces appear lighter than what happens with 316L steel, and the polished parts have a depth of reflection that, to the naked eye, is distinct. Anyone who has worked extensively on metal finishing at the bench sees it immediately. It is neither a PVD effect nor a plating: it is the bare alloy.

From a sustainability standpoint, Chopard includes Lucent Steel in its ethical sourcing program, which also includes responsibly extracted gold. The recycled percentage is verified by third parties, but the details of the melting process and exact composition remain proprietary. I do not know the specific percentage of alloying elements added to the base iron: Chopard has not published it.

Vuoi scoprire di più?