The Strap Almanac

Racing (motorsport-inspired look and details)

The term racing in watchmaking does not refer to a single element but to a coherent set of technical and aesthetic choices borrowed directly from competitive motorsport. The root is functional, not decorative. Drivers in the 1960s and 70s needed instruments that were legible during a race, resistant to vibration, and operable while wearing gloves: from that necessity come the codes we still recognise today.

The most identifiable component is the tachymeter scale, engraved on the bezel or printed on the dial. It measures the average speed of a vehicle over a fixed distance, usually one kilometre: you start the chronograph as you pass the first marker, stop it at the second, and read the value directly off the scale without any calculation. Some modern makers have readapted the graduation: the Baltic Tricompax, for example, compresses the first quarter of the scale into the 60–75 second interval, reflecting realistic racing speeds rather than keeping the original theoretical values. It is not an error, it is an honest design choice.

Mushroom-type pushers are another marker of the genre. The rounded, domed head was designed to make operation easier while wearing racing gloves; today the shape has remained as a stylistic hallmark of vintage-inspired sports chronographs. The sub-dials of the Yema Rallygraf, with their geometry that is neither trapezoidal nor oval, derive explicitly from the on-board instruments of 1970s racing cars.

On the colour front, British Racing Green deserves a precise historical note: the dark green appeared in 1903 on the British Napier cars at the Gordon Bennett Cup, held in Ireland, as a variation on shamrock green. From there it became the national racing colour of British motorsport, and today it is revived on dials wishing to evoke that tradition — with results that vary considerably depending on how the shade is achieved, whether through PVD deposition, enamel or simply printing.

The concept of homologation special enters watchmaking only by analogy: certain timepieces are produced in limited runs to accompany a homologated car (Toyota GT-One, Porsche 911 GT1), but the regulatory logic is automotive, not horological. It is worth knowing in order to understand certain matching box sets, nothing more.

From the bench, I would add that the risk with this segment is an accumulation of symbols without substance: a tachymeter scale on a movement without a chronograph, holes punched in leather too stiff to actually breathe. When racing elements have a genuine technical reason, they work. When they are merely printed on top, it shows.

Updated on · Antonio Zichichi

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