Almanacco del Cinturino

Carburo

In watchmaking, the term carbide refers to a family of chemical compounds formed by carbon bonded to a metal — most often tungsten or titanium — with mechanical characteristics far superior to those of conventional steel. It is not a single material but a class, and confusing the variants is a common mistake even among dealers.

Tungsten carbide (WC) is the most widespread. Its density is almost double that of steel and comparable to gold: approximately 15–16 g/cm³. This density makes it interesting for micro-rotors, where concentrated mass in small space is needed. The X-Centric caliber of the Trilobe uses it exactly this way: a compact micro-rotor capable of generating sufficient torque to drive the dial discs. Bulgari, in the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, took a more radical step: the main plate and caseback are carved from a single piece of tungsten carbide, eliminating the junction between the two components and reducing total thickness without sacrificing structural rigidity. Omega used tungsten carbide for the fluted bezel of the Globemaster Annual Calendar in steel, where the additional resistance justifies the machining cost. The material is biocompatible and chemically inert: it does not oxidize, does not cause skin reactions, does not age visibly.

Titanium carbide (TiC) is approximately half as light as tungsten carbide, with Vickers hardness that can exceed 1750 HV. Rado built its Ceramos material around this compound: approximately 90% TiC with 10% binding metal, obtaining a cermet — ceramic-metal — that behaves like ceramic in scratch resistance but like metal in toughness and polishability. Since 2011 Ceramos has been injectable into precision molds, opening the way to complex geometries for the DiaStar bezel. Porsche Design uses TiC differently: as a coating on pure titanium, not as a solid material. The result is an opaque black case with very high scratch resistance, achieved using glass bead-blasting technique over the coating.

Rolex took a third path with the Cerachrom bezel of the Daytona Rolesium 125602: a composite formula based on zirconia enriched with tungsten carbide, patented separately from the standard Cerachrom recipe. Adding WC to the ceramic matrix increases hardness and shifts the appearance toward anthracite gray with metallic reflections, different from pure ceramic.

From the bench: solid tungsten carbide is machined almost exclusively by sintering — traditional milling wears tools rapidly and costs rise. Those who see very low prices on components claimed to be solid WC should be skeptical: it is almost always a PVD or CVD coating, not solid material.

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