Technical Archive

Rolex
Submariner 5517— lug 20mm

Rolex Submariner 5517: 20mm strap. Alligator, box calf, shell cordovan and rubber, cut and stitched in Milano. Choose your leather.

Rolex Submariner 5517

Artisanal Note

"The 40 case requires a precise 20mm lug width to preserve the original sartorial balance."

Technical Specifications

Rolex 5517
Lug Width
20 mm

The essential strap measurement.

Browse 20mm straps →
Case Size
40 mm
Reference

5517

Years

1971–1979

Movement

Rolex Caliber 1520

Case Material

Stainless Steel

Bezel

Black aluminum insert

Crystal

Acrylic

Water Resistance

200m

The Heritage

The Rolex Submariner 5517 is a military-issue diving watch produced between 1971 and 1979 in limited quantities for the British Royal Navy. It features a dial without the Rolex logo and "SUBMARINER" text without depth rating, distinguishing its military origin. Powered by Calibre 1520, an automatic mechanical movement with 18,000 beats per hour, the watch has a 40mm stainless steel case with unidirectional aluminum bezel and acrylic crystal. Water resistance is rated at 200 meters. The 20mm lug width accommodates standard straps, with the characteristic tapered lug design requiring straight-end 20mm attachments.

FAQ

What is the lug width of the Rolex Submariner 5517?

The Rolex Submariner 5517 has a lug width of 20mm, measured internally between the case lugs at the strap attachment point. This is the standard dimension across the entire Submariner family and allows the fitment of any straight-ended 20mm strap.

What is the best strap for the Rolex Submariner 5517?

The choice depends on intended use and personal style. For those wishing to honour the watch's military origins, a NATO strap in nylon or cordura in olive green or black is the most historically appropriate option. For everyday elegant wear, a vegetable-tanned calf leather or hornback alligator strap in black offers refinement and durability. Shell cordovan develops a rich patina over time that complements tropical dials found on certain examples.

How do you change the strap on a Rolex Submariner 5517?

Replacing the strap on the 5517 requires a 1.8mm springbar tool. Compress the springbar on both sides of the lug and gently lever the strap free. Care must be taken not to scratch the steel lugs, which on vintage examples often carry a natural patina. Given the historical significance of this reference, it is advisable to entrust the operation to an experienced watchmaker.

Are there aftermarket straps compatible with the Rolex Submariner 5517?

Yes. Any strap with a 20mm lug width and straight ends is compatible with the Rolex Submariner 5517. Casati Milano artisan straps are crafted to fit Rolex lugs precisely, with stainless steel springbars included. Leather, alligator, NATO and rubber options are available in the 20mm strap section on milanostraps.it.

How long does a leather strap last on a Rolex Submariner 5517?

Longevity depends on the leather type and conditions of use. A quality vegetable-tanned calf strap, properly conditioned with natural wax and kept away from water, typically lasts 2–4 years with daily wear. Alligator leather, being denser and more resilient, can last 5–7 years. Shell cordovan, owing to its tightly packed fibre structure, is among the most durable options. Casati Milano provides an 18-month warranty against manufacturing defects on all artisan straps.

The next step

The right strap isn’t chosen. It is built, together.

From the atelier appointment to delivery, every step is made for those who know that things done well take time. Rare leathers, one piece at a time, eighteen months of warranty.

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