Technical Archive

Rolex
Submariner 168000— lug 20mm

Rolex Submariner 168000: 20mm strap. Alligator, box calf, shell cordovan and rubber, cut and stitched in Milano. Choose your leather.

Rolex Submariner 168000

Artisanal Note

"The 40 case requires a precise 20mm lug width to preserve the original sartorial balance."

Technical Specifications

Rolex 168000
Lug Width
20 mm

The essential strap measurement.

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Case Size
40 mm
Reference

168000

Years

1987–1988

Movement

Rolex Caliber 3035

Case Material

Stainless Steel

Bezel

Unidirectional aluminum insert

Crystal

Sapphire

Water Resistance

300m

The Heritage

The Rolex Submariner 168000, produced between 1987 and 1988, marks a significant transition in Submariner history as the first model to feature a solid screw-down caseback instead of the traditional pressure caseback. The 40mm stainless steel Oyster case houses the Rolex Caliber 3035 automatic movement with variable inertia balance wheel, COSC certification, and approximately 50-hour power reserve. The unidirectional rotating bezel with black aluminum scale, double-locked crown, and Twinlock crown ensure 300-meter water resistance, while the 20mm lug width accommodates standard aftermarket straps.

FAQ

What is the lug width of the Rolex Submariner 168000?

The Rolex Submariner 168000 features 20mm lugs, the standard measurement across the entire Submariner line with a 40mm OYSTER case. This dimension can be verified using a digital calliper placed between the parallel lugs in contact with the case.

What is the best strap for the Rolex Submariner 168000?

For the 168000, a Hornback alligator strap enhances the sport-chic character of the OYSTER case. Alternatively, vegetable-tanned calf leather develops a personal patina over time, while NATO and vulcanised rubber are ideal for more active or water-adjacent use.

How do you change the strap on a Rolex Submariner 168000?

Replacing the strap on the Submariner 168000 requires a thin flat-head screwdriver and a spring bar tool. The 20mm OYSTER lugs accommodate standard 1.5mm spring bars. The operation is fully reversible and does not require any intervention on the movement.

Are there aftermarket straps compatible with the Rolex Submariner 168000?

Yes, any strap with a 20mm attachment is compatible with the Rolex Submariner 168000. Casati Milano's handcrafted straps are made to this exact lug width, with stitching, thickness and lining calibrated to fit the geometry of OYSTER lugs precisely.

How long does a leather strap last on a Rolex Submariner 168000?

A quality leather strap — whether vegetable-tanned or alligator — typically lasts between 2 and 4 years with daily wear, depending on exposure to perspiration and moisture. Using a deployant clasp reduces mechanical stress and significantly extends the strap's service life.

The next step

The right strap isn’t chosen. It is built, together.

From the atelier appointment to delivery, every step is made for those who know that things done well take time. Rare leathers, one piece at a time, eighteen months of warranty.

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The atelier's website: casatimilano.com