Technical Archive

Rolex
GMT-Master 16700-0001— lug 20mm

Rolex GMT-Master 16700-0001: 20mm strap. Alligator, box calf, shell cordovan and rubber, cut and stitched in Milano. Choose your leather.

GMT-Master 16700

Artisanal Note

"This model requires a precise 20mm lug width to preserve the original sartorial balance."

Technical Specifications

Rolex 16700-0001
Lug Width
20 mm

The essential strap measurement.

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Reference

16700-0001

Movement

Rolex caliber 3175 Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Additional 24 Hour Hand (fixed) | Date

The Heritage

The GMT-Master was introduced in 1954 as a watch for international airline pilots. The 16700 reference features the automatic caliber 3175 with fixed GMT hand and date indication. Case with 20mm lugs for the strap or bracelet.

FAQ

What is the exact lug width of the Rolex GMT-Master 16700-0001?

The lug width of the Rolex GMT-Master 16700-0001 is precisely 20 millimetres. This measurement represents the distance between the lower attachment points of the lugs on the case. To verify correctly, position a digital calliper parallel to the case surface at the junction line between the lug and the main body. A compatible strap must strictly respect this dimension to ensure stable anchorage without lateral oscillations.

Which strap material is most suitable for the GMT-Master 16700-0001?

Alligator represents the premier solution for the GMT-Master 16700-0001, thanks to its granular texture that ages gracefully and develops a captivating patina. Polished calf leather offers a versatile neutral foundation for those prioritising practicality. Shell cordovan provides maximum constructive density and tensile resistance, albeit at higher cost. NATO textile is appropriate for those seeking tactical robustness and tool-free changeability, whilst maintaining a sportive aesthetic profile.

How do I change the strap on a Rolex GMT-Master 16700-0001?

Strap replacement requires a spring bar removal tool. Position the watch on a soft surface (cotton cloth or equivalent), locate the elastic spring bars situated laterally at the lower lugs, apply gentle inward pressure using the spring bar tool to liberate the bar from its seat in the lug, and carefully extract the current strap. Reverse the procedure with the replacement strap, verifying that the spring bar rests completely within the lug seat. For vintage specimens, entrusting the operation to a technical specialist is advisable to prevent lug damage.

Is an aftermarket strap compatible with the GMT-Master 16700-0001?

Yes, any strap manufactured with a 20mm lug width is compatible with the GMT-Master 16700-0001, provided that the metal passants (spring bars) respect the dimensional specifications of the Rolex case. Standard Rolex spring bars present a diameter of 1.8 millimetres and a length of approximately 17-18 millimetres (measurement variable according to model specification). A bespoke strap realised in specialised ateliers offers aesthetic customisation possibilities whilst maintaining full functional compatibility.

What is the lifespan of a leather strap for the GMT-Master 16700-0001?

The lifespan of a leather strap depends upon material type, tanning quality and usage intensity. An alligator or shell cordovan strap executed with vegetable tanning can endure 4-6 years with ordinary maintenance (gentle cleaning, drying away from direct sunlight, periodic conditioning with natural oils). A standard calf leather strap typically endures 2-3 years. Factors abbreviating lifespan include prolonged exposure to direct sunlight, elevated ambient humidity and absence of preventative maintenance. A bespoke strap realised in specialised ateliers typically includes a production defect warranty for a period of 18 months.

The next step

The right strap isn’t chosen. It is built, together.

From the atelier appointment to delivery, every step is made for those who know that things done well take time. Rare leathers, one piece at a time, eighteen months of warranty.

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By appointment only · Milan

The atelier's website: casatimilano.com