Technical Archive

Rolex
Explorer II 16550— lug 20mm

Rolex Explorer II 16550: 20mm strap. Alligator, box calf, shell cordovan and rubber, cut and stitched in Milano. Choose your leather.

Rolex Explorer II 16550

Artisanal Note

"The 40 case requires a precise 20mm lug width to preserve the original sartorial balance."

Technical Specifications

Rolex 16550
Lug Width
20 mm

The essential strap measurement.

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Case Size
40 mm
Reference

16550

Years

1985–1988

Movement

Rolex Caliber 3085

Case Material

Stainless Steel

Bezel

Fixed stainless steel bezel with 24-hour graduations

Crystal

Sapphire

Water Resistance

100m

The Heritage

The Rolex Explorer II ref. 16550, produced from 1985 to 1988, is the second generation of a tool watch designed for explorers and cavers. It features a redesigned dial available in white "polar" or black variants, with improved indices, larger luminous hands, and a fixed 24-hour bezel. The 40mm stainless steel Oyster case houses the automatic Rolex Calibre 3085 with bidirectional winding, offering approximately 50 hours of power reserve at 28,800 vibrations per hour. The watch is water-resistant to 100 meters. The lug width is 20mm, a standard dimension for Rolex production of that era.

FAQ

What is the lug width of the Rolex Explorer II 16550?

The Rolex Explorer II ref. 16550 has a lug width of 20 mm. This is the measurement to consider when selecting any aftermarket strap, whether in leather, rubber, or nylon. It should be measured using a digital calliper, recording the internal distance between the two upper lugs of the case.

What is the best strap for the Rolex Explorer II 16550?

It depends on the intended use and aesthetic. For a formal look, an alligator or shell cordovan strap with a steel buckle complements the Oyster case beautifully. For sport or wet environments, vulcanised rubber is the most practical choice. Vegetable-tanned calf leather strikes a balance between everyday comfort and artisanal character, developing a personal patina over time.

How do you change the strap on a Rolex Explorer II 16550?

To replace the strap on the 16550, you will need a spring bar tool with a fine tip. Insert it into the lug slot to compress the spring bars and release the strap. Take care to avoid scratching the case. Alternatively, a watchmaker or the Casati Milano atelier can perform the swap safely and professionally.

Are there aftermarket straps compatible with the Rolex Explorer II 16550?

Yes, any strap with a 20 mm lug width is technically compatible with the 16550. Milanostraps.it offers a curated range of handcrafted straps in various materials — leather, rubber, and NATO — made to Rolex standard dimensions, including curved ends that fit flush with the Oyster case profile.

How long does a leather strap last on a Rolex Explorer II 16550?

A quality leather strap — such as vegetable-tanned calf or alligator — can last between 2 and 5 years with standard care. Longevity depends on exposure to perspiration, water, and UV light. Casati Milano offers an 18-month guarantee against manufacturing defects and recommends using rubber or NATO straps in aquatic environments to protect the leather.

The next step

The right strap isn’t chosen. It is built, together.

From the atelier appointment to delivery, every step is made for those who know that things done well take time. Rare leathers, one piece at a time, eighteen months of warranty.

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The atelier's website: casatimilano.com