Technical Archive

Rolex
Datejust 36 116231-0090— lug 20mm

Rolex Datejust 36 116231-0090: 20mm strap. Alligator, box calf, shell cordovan and rubber, cut and stitched in Milano. Choose your leather.

Datejust 36 Rolesor Everose Fluted / Jubilee / Black Arabic

Artisanal Note

"This model requires a precise 20mm lug width to preserve the original sartorial balance."

Technical Specifications

Rolex 116231-0090
Lug Width
20 mm

The essential strap measurement.

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Reference

116231-0090

Movement

Rolex caliber 3135 Hours, Minutes, Seconds | Chronometer

The Heritage

The Datejust 36 reference 116231-0090 is equipped with the automatic caliber 3135 with official chronometer certification. The 36mm case features hour, minute, second and date functions. The model uses 20mm lugs for the strap.

FAQ

What is the lug width of the Rolex Datejust 36 116231-0090?

The Rolex Datejust 36 116231-0090 features a lug width of 20 millimetres. This dimension is not standard in the artisanal watch strap market and represents a specific design specification of the model. Correct measurement is calculated by measuring the internal distance between the parallel lugs of the case, not the shoulder width. An undersized lug width will create excessive play, whilst an oversized width will not fit into the lugs.

What type of strap is recommended for the Datejust 36 116231-0090?

For the Datejust 36 116231-0090, premium leather straps are recommended: alligator for severe elegance with controlled natural texture, vegetable-tanned calf for superior softness and rapid patina development, or anthracite black calf with matte finish for chromatic balance with the rose gold case. Avoid rubber, fabric, or cold-tone straps: these contradict the aesthetic identity of the two-tone case.

How do you change the strap on a Rolex Datejust 36?

Changing the strap on a Datejust 36 requires two precise tools: a spring bar tool and a clean working surface. Position the watch with the lugs facing upward, gently insert the tool into the lateral opening of the lug, applying minimal pressure to avoid scratching the metal. Push the spring bar downward until it yields, then extract the lug. Repeat on the opposite side. For insertion of the new strap, align the lug holes with the spring bar and press until you hear a click. If excessive pressure is required, consult a qualified watchmaker.

Can the Datejust 36 116231-0090 strap be replaced with a compatible aftermarket option?

Yes, any strap with a 20-millimetre lug width is mechanically compatible. However, aesthetic compatibility requires chromatic and material coherence with the two-tone case identity: alligator, vegetable-tanned calf, and shell cordovan remain appropriate choices. Rubber, NATO, or fabric straps will appear aesthetically incongruous with the formal and sartorial character of the Datejust 36.

What is the expected lifespan of a leather strap for the Datejust 36?

The lifespan of an artisanal leather strap for the Datejust 36 depends on tanning method, thickness, and environmental wear. A vegetable-tanned calf of sartorial quality (3–3.5 millimetres thickness) maintains mechanical integrity for 2–4 years of daily wear. Well-maintained alligator can exceed 5 years. Direct sunlight, water exposure, and perspiration accelerate ageing. Premium straps produced by Casati Milano include an 18-month warranty against manufacturing defects; however, aesthetic wear is natural and desirable—patina is the price of beauty.

The next step

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