In watchmaking, the term construction refers to the structural principle by which a case, dial, or movement is conceived and assembled. It is not a synonym for generic manufacturing: it concerns the logic by which components support each other, articulate, and seal together. From the bench, the first thing I evaluate on a vintage watch is precisely this: how it is held together, and whether the original solution has been respected in subsequent restorations.
The major families are divided into monolithic constructions (one-piece) and multi-element constructions. The monolithic construction — adopted by Rado on some ceramic models and by Seiko on the Marinemaster SLA081 — derives the case and structural parts from a single block of material. The advantage is robustness and, in the case of deep saturation diving, the elimination of the helium escape valve. The disadvantage, as the first version of the Hemipod teaches us, is that access to the movement can become a serious problem: the 2025 version had to introduce a caseback crown precisely to solve that issue.
The sandwich construction follows the opposite logic: it stratifies distinct materials. Hublot uses it on the Big Bang case to integrate the bezel, lateral bumpers, and main body into a single coherent system, even when materials change from edition to edition. The same principle applies to dials: a lower layer carries indices or texture, an upper layer — often perforated — creates optical depth and allows details to be polished in three-dimensional fashion. I know that effect well: on certain vintage pieces from the Seventies, builders did similar things without calling them sandwich constructions.
Modular construction, on the other hand, concerns movements. A modular chronograph adds a module to the base caliber, as on the L898.5 caliber where the chronograph mounts on the ETA 2892-A2. It facilitates maintenance and allows thickness to be contained. Pillar construction supports movement components on vertical columns: the 102.1 caliber by Moritz Grossmann achieves 4 mm thickness with this logic.
Other solutions concern the case as a mechanical system: Bremont's Trip-Tick divides the case into three elements with shock-mounted movement, designed to resist stress from Martin-Baker ejector seats. Laps Studio Arche carries the lugs as separate elements, each finished individually before assembly. The hollow lugs of the De Bethune DB25GMT lighten the structure through internal recessing, without sacrificing rigidity. SLM additive manufacturing enables geometries — honeycomb, ultra-thin walls — that subtractive machining could not produce: the TAG Heuer Monaco Air 1 reaches just 85 grams of case weight thanks to this process.
Understanding the construction of a watch is the first step to evaluating its long-term serviceability. A beautiful piece that is unreachable from a service perspective is a problem you only see years later.