Mississippiensis alligator is the noblest leather for haute horlogerie straps. But it is also the most imitated. In this article I guide you through the criteria we use in the atelier to distinguish a strap in genuine alligator — authentic, CITES-certified, hand-crafted — from an imitation in caiman passed off as alligator or, worse, embossed calfskin.
1. Scale pattern: the anatomical signature
The first clue is the scale design. Alligator presents three distinct types of scales on the belly: large, symmetrical central square scales, rectangular scales on the sides, and a transition line toward the smaller scales of the dorsal area. This scheme is regular, orderly, almost geometric.
Caiman, often sold as “alligator”, has smaller, irregular scales, with a clearly visible ossified central depression (the “rosette”) in each scale. If you run your fingertip over the scale and feel a small hollow, it is not alligator. It is caiman. It costs one tenth and works poorly: it tends to crack within 2-3 years of use.
Crocodile (Crocodylus species) has yet different scales: smaller than alligator, irregular in rhythm, with the presence of the ISO sensory line pores — tiny black dots aligned along the edges of the scales. They are natural pores, not defects. Caiman does not have them.
2. Belly cut: the noble cut and symmetry
A high-end strap uses the centred belly cut: the central row of alligator scales is perfectly aligned with the axis of the strap, and the scales on the sides mirror each other symmetrically. If you pick up a strap and notice that the central line is off-centre, or that the scale pattern “rises to one side”, it is a less noble cut (usually a lateral section of the hide, more economical).
The belly cut requires large, selected hides: from an entire alligator hide (60-90 cm of belly) one obtains at most 2-3 straps with a perfect belly cut. All the rest of the hide is used for other cuts or accessories. For this reason a strap with a centred belly cut costs a minimum of 280€ in Italian ateliers working with certified raw material.
3. CITES certification: the only legal proof
Mississippiensis alligator is in Appendix II of the CITES convention (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species). This means that trade is permitted but must be documented. Every strap in authentic alligator has a CITES certificate that identifies:
- the serial number of the hide
- the origin (farm or controlled capture)
- the tannery that processed the skin
- the authorised importer
If those selling an “alligator” strap do not provide CITES, it is one of three things: it is not alligator, it is alligator of illegal origin, or they do not know what they are selling. All three are sufficient reasons not to purchase. Milano Straps provides CITES with every alligator strap, and the serial number is traceable from the supplier Heng Long or Italtannin.
4. Touch and flexibility
Genuine alligator, properly tanned with vegetable tanning, has a specific feel: soft but not flaccid, slightly elastic, with a flexibility that immediately returns to the original position. If you bend the strap between thumb and index finger and feel rigidity or a “crackling” of the leather, it is caiman (rapid chemical tanning) or embossed calfskin.
Authentic scales, under finger pressure, maintain their profile: the edge of the scale remains defined. On an embossed imitation, the scales “flatten out” because they are only a relief on the surface, not real anatomical sections.
5. Strap edge and stitching
A quality alligator strap has the edge hand-cut and varnish-painted, never stamped or punched. The cut reveals the thickness of the leather, generally 2.5-3 mm of alligator + 0.8-1 mm of soft calfskin lining. If the edge is wavy, smudged, or the thickness is not uniform, the workmanship is industrial.
The stitching, usually saddle stitch (Point de Sellier) executed by hand, presents a characteristic alternating diagonal above and below. If you see perfectly vertical and rhythmically identical stitches, it is machine stitching — possible on mid-range products, but not on high-end ateliers.
Conclusion
Distinguishing genuine alligator from caiman or embossed calfskin requires 30 seconds of attention: look for the regularity of the pattern, check the centred belly cut, ask for CITES. If the seller hesitates on even one of these points, you have found your answer. At the Casati Milano atelier, every alligator strap is certified and numbered. If you want to see the difference in person, come to Via XX Settembre 15 — by appointment only.