MILANO STRAPS · CALF

Calfskin: the leather you really know

Calf leather is not just one type of leather. It’s a family: Saffiano, Togo, Veau Monsieur, Vache Hunter—each with a different grain, tanning process, and character. What they have in common is the quality of the raw material. That's where it all begins.

THE ORIGIN

There isn't just one type of tanning. The calfskin immediately tells you that.

Calfskin is a bovine leather that exists in more variants than one might imagine. Saffiano, Veau Monsieur, Vache Hunter, Togo, Epsom, Swift, Clemence, Box, Barenia — each name corresponds to a different treatment, a different behaviour over time. Maisons such as Hermès, Delvaux and Celine have made it the reference material for bags, accessories and watch straps. The tanning is mixed: some variants vegetable, others chrome, some hybrid.

The differences between one variant and another are not subtle. Veau Monsieur has a fine grain and a silky hand. Vache Hunter keeps the deep veining and the animal’s natural marks visible — nothing is hidden. Saffiano carries a geometric cross-hatched embossing made iconic by Hermès. Tadelakt has a smooth, slightly waxy surface, inherited from a millennia-old Moroccan technique. Clemence is satin-finished, with a velvety and discreet hand. Epsom has a regular, geometric printed grain. Swift — chrome-tanned, not vegetable — has an impalpable Fleur finish with slight irregularity. Togo is full-grain, with a light, natural grain. All are water-resistant. All develop patina with use. This is what they share: they age well.

Hermès, Delvaux and Celine have worked with calfskin for decades. Delvaux — founded in 1829 — has developed its own variants: Tempo Calf with vegetable tanning, Domino Calf with a raised polka-dot texture, Alpina Calf of Swiss origin. Celine uses Calfskin Liège, of Belgian origin. Different names for different stories of the same animal.

Milano Straps calfskin straps are available in 18, 20 and 22 mm.

For a strap built around your watch — leather chosen together, made to measure, saddle stitch — the Casati Milano atelier is in Via XX Settembre 15. By appointment only.

Cinturini Orologi Pelle Vitello — pellame vitello

Mixed tannage, natural grain: calfskin changes with age and use.

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FOR WHICH WATCH

The size of the loop for Veal

Calfskin straps available in 18, 20 and 22 mm. Our database covers over 45,000 references — enter your model to find the exact size.

Breitling Superocean A17316D21A1S1 18mm
Durona oro rosa 22mm
Franck Muller Casablanca 5850 18mm
Hamilton Jazzmaster H32305195 18mm
Longines La Grande Classique L4.705.4.58.6 (aka: L47054586) 18mm
Longines Elegant L4.812.4.11.0 18mm
Nomos Glashütte Club 742 18mm
Nomos Glashütte Club 708.S2 18mm
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 232.33.38.20.01.001 (aka: 23233382001001) 18mm
Omega Constellation 1566.56.00 20mm

Enter the brand or reference to confirm the size.

Check your watch

Calf leather isn't just one material – it's a family. Saffiano with its crosshatch embossing, Vache Hunter with visible natural scars and marks, Togo with a light full-grain texture. Each variation has a different logic, a different behavior on the wrist.

Available in 18, 20, and 22mm. It pairs well with watches ranging from dress watches to sport watches: from the Nomos Club to the Breitling Superocean, from the Omega Constellation to the Franck Muller Casablanca. It develops a patina with use.

Frequently asked questions

How do you clean and maintain a calf leather strap?

Every 2-3 months, apply a natural conditioner with a soft dry cloth. Saffiano handles moisture well thanks to its embossed grain. Veau Monsieur and Togo require more care: avoid direct water. Always air dry, never in the sun.

What is calf leather and why do Hermès and Delvaux use it?

Calf leather comes in many variants — Saffiano, Togo, Box, Barenia — all with mixed tanning. Hermès and Delvaux choose it for its uniform texture and durability over time. I work it in 18, 20 and 22mm lug widths.

Can I order a custom calf leather strap from the atelier?

Casati Milano, located at Via XX Settembre 15, builds every calf leather strap starting with leather selection in the atelier, on your watch. Size, color, finish — everything is chosen together. By appointment only, bookable via WhatsApp.

Does calf handle daily moisture or does it need water protection?

It handles daily moisture well. It's not waterproof — no natural leather is — but if you get caught in rain or sweat, dry it immediately with a soft cloth and let it air dry. I work with it in 18, 20 and 22mm without issues under normal use.

What watches pair best with a calf leather strap?

Calf adapts well to both sports and dress watches. On a Breitling Superocean (18mm) it handles daily wear well. For larger cases, 22mm pairs nicely with rose gold. I've also worked on Omega Constellation and Nomos Club — both 18-20mm, both right at home with calf.

Does calf develop patina with use or stay unchanged over time?

It depends on the variant. Fjord develops visible patina — the grain deepens over time thanks to vegetable tanning. Saffiano and Epsom variants, with geometric stamped grain, age more subtly. For those seeking natural aging, 18 and 20mm in Fjord or Togo are the right choice.

What's the difference between calf box-calf and shell cordovan?

Calf box-calf has a smooth, slightly waxy finish and develops patina with use. Shell cordovan comes from a fibrous layer of horsehide — denser, different luster, slower aging. Both available in 18, 20 and 22mm. For daily wear I prefer calf: it yields first, but transforms better.

The next step

The right strap isn’t chosen. It is built, together.

From the atelier appointment to delivery, every step is made for those who know that things done well take time. Rare leathers, one piece at a time, eighteen months of warranty.

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What we offer

  • We guide you through every step — with exclusive images directly from our atelier
  • Over 50 artisanal steps for each strap — from leather selection to final stitching
  • The time it takes to do extraordinary things — four, five weeks. Not a day less.
  • An object designed to last a lifetime — cared for by us for eighteen months
  • The right leather for your watch — chosen together, in the atelier, only for you

By appointment only · Milan