TUNGSTEN

What is TUNGSTEN?

Tungsten is a transition metal belonging to group VIB of the periodic table, characterized by atomic number 74 and the chemical symbol W, derived from the German term "Wolfram". Discovered in 1783 by Spanish chemists Juan José Elhuyar and Fausto Elhuyar in wolframite, an ore extracted from mines in the Basque region of Spain, tungsten represents one of the metallic elements with the most extreme and fascinating properties in nature. It is a metal of exceptionally high density — 19.25 g/cm³ — second only to platinum and gold among precious metals. However, tungsten was not used in the watchmaking and leather goods sector until the 20th century, when its extraordinary resistance to oxidation and its ability to maintain a mirror finish made it valuable for high-tech components and, subsequently, for exclusive accessories. In metallurgy, pure tungsten is extremely brittle at room temperature; for this reason, it is alloyed with other metals — stainless steel, titanium, nickel — to obtain alloys that combine structural robustness and characteristic tungsten density.

Characteristics and Properties

Tungsten boasts unique physical properties that clearly distinguish it from conventional alloys used in watchmaking and leather goods. Here are the main ones:

Tungsten does not develop a natural patina in the classic sense: it retains its original metallic appearance without darkening or blackening over time, unlike blued steel or bronze. Its surface may show slight scuffs — the famous "history" of the metal — which actually emphasize the original texture without compromising structural integrity. For watchmaking and leather goods applications, tungsten is predominantly used in the form of binary or ternary alloys: tungsten-steel (W-Steel), tungsten-nickel-iron (WNiFe), and tungsten-rhenium (W-Re). These compositions provide the desired density while maintaining acceptable workability for artisanal manufacturing. The grain of tungsten items is particularly pronounced — the metal has a well-defined crystalline structure — and conveys a tactile sense of absolute solidity.

Use in Watch Straps

In the panorama of contemporary watch leather goods, tungsten represents an unusual and radically sophisticated choice. It is not a primary material for the strap itself — where vegetable-tanned leather, technical fabrics, and rubber predominate — but rather a structural and aesthetic component of exceptional importance.

Technical applications: Tungsten is used in the manufacture of deployant buckles, folding clasps, tang buckles, and anchoring components. A buckle made of tungsten alloy gives the strap a significant counterweight — the so-called "balance" — which stabilizes its position on the wrist, especially in sports watches and thicker models. The wear resistance of the tungsten-nickel alloy ensures that the release and fastening mechanisms maintain their precision even after decades of daily use.

Aesthetics and styling: Classic pairings include dark brown leather straps (with tannic vegetable tanning) with satin-finished tungsten buckles, creating a warm-cold contrast of extraordinary elegance. Equally refined is the combination of brushed tungsten with nylon or canvas straps — the cold gray of the metal enhances the textures of natural fabrics. Compatible watch models range from sports chronograph collections (Rolex Daytona, Omega Speedmaster, TAG Heuer style) to classic timepieces with steel or white gold cases, where the tungsten of the buckle creates a visual and tactile material continuity.

Milano Straps produces custom straps with tungsten components: the manufacturing requires micrometric precision and high-end CNC equipment. Each strap is handcrafted in the atelier, ensuring that the buckle's position, the tang's angle, and the tension of the fastening hook perfectly adapt to the case's geometry.

Maintenance and Care

Tungsten does not require particularly complex maintenance protocols, but some precautions prolong its original brilliance and mechanical functionality.

Routine cleaning: Regularly wipe the buckle and tungsten components with a soft, dry microfiber cloth to remove dust and traces of moisture. Once a month, dampen the cloth with lukewarm distilled water and a neutral detergent (pH 6.5-7.5), gently rub the surfaces, and immediately dry with a lint-free cotton cloth. Do not use metal brushes, abrasive pastes, or solvents — tungsten is resistant, but not impervious.

Corrosion protection: Although tungsten is extremely resistant to oxidation, in environments with very high humidity (swimming pools, saunas, prolonged sea immersion), it is advisable to apply a thin layer of neutral mineral oil to the buckle after rinsing. This creates a temporary protective film that prevents the formation of a superficial oxide film (still extremely thin, but visually perceptible).

Storage: Store the strap with tungsten components in a dry case, preferably made of chemically untreated cotton or linen. Avoid coastal saline environments (where even tungsten can undergo very slow deterioration) and relative humidity above 80% for prolonged periods.

Repairs and restoration: In the event of deep scratches or wear of the satin finish, the surface can be restored through specialized CNC refinishing. Always consult certified workshops with expertise in precision metallurgy — a local craftsman can assess the feasibility of the restoration and the intervention times.

Discover Milano Straps with TUNGSTEN components — Milanese craftsmanship, 48-hour shipping. For a custom strap with personalized specifications, visit the Casati Milano atelier at Via XX Settembre 15, Milan — by appointment. Contact us for a consultation on choosing the ideal alloy and finish for your watch.