Suede

What is Suede

Suede is a premium leather material obtained from the flesh side of the hide, which undergoes fine sanding to develop an unmistakable velvety texture. Unlike nubuck, which comes from the grain side of bovine leather and maintains a more compact texture, suede boasts superior natural softness due to its origin from the back of the hide, where the fibers are softer and more pliable.

The term's origin dates back to 17th-century Sweden, where Scandinavian artisans refined the techniques for processing the flesh side to produce a material suitable for prestigious clothing and accessories. The name "suede" derives directly from "Suède," the French name for Sweden, coined when Milanese and Parisian clients began importing leathers processed using this method. However, similar methods were already practiced in Italian Renaissance courts, where vegetable tanning was combined with sanding to obtain leathers of extraordinary fineness.

Today, suede represents an international standard of luxury leather goods: every single handmade suede strap requires rigorous selection of the hides, controlled drying, and manual finishing that only specialized workshops can guarantee.

Characteristics and Properties

Suede's physical properties distinctly differentiate it from other leather categories:

Suede ages nobly. Over the months, areas of greater contact—lugs, edges, wrist pressure—develop a darker, almost burnished patina, while the rest of the strap retains its original color. This natural contrast attests to the authenticity of the material and the history of its wearer.

Use in Watch Straps

In the watchmaking context, suede represents an overtly informal and refined stylistic choice. A suede strap conveys a willingness for visible and declared wear, rejecting the sterility of lacquered leather. For this reason, suede straps are ideally suited for:

Types of watches:

• Sporty casual: Brushed steel chronographs, grey dive watches, pilot's watches with cream dials. Suede balances the watch's technical seriousness with a more relaxed vibe.
• Elegant-sporty: GMT-Masters, vintage Daytonas, Seamasters in near-vintage versions. The suede strap softens the aesthetic harshness of these models.
• Minimalist dress watches: Watches under 36mm diameter, monochromatic dials, yellow gold or rose gold cases. Suede nobly contrasts with precious metals.

Color combinations:

Smoky grey suede acts like a chameleon with steel and titanium watches. Burgundy suede enlivens watches with red gold cases. Sage green suede—rare and sought-after—enhances champagne or ivory dials. Black suede remains the most versatile option: it suits any metal-color combination.

Lug configuration:

In Milano Straps, the suede lug is crafted with particular attention to the nap: the inner side (towards the wrist) has a very slight anti-slip texture, while the outer side maintains its pure velvety feel. The deployant clasp, when present, is shaped so that the mechanism leaves no permanent marks on the sanded surface.

Maintenance and Care

Routine cleaning:

Use a natural horsehair brush—never synthetic bristles—with gentle strokes in the direction of the nap. Brush once a week, or when micro-dust particles accumulate. Never immerse the strap in water.

Removing light stains:

For traces of sweat or superficial dirt: dab with a microfiber cloth lightly dampened (not wet) with distilled water. Allow to air dry, away from direct heat sources or intense sunlight.

Preventative protection:

Once or twice a year, apply a specific suede protector (silicone-based oil spray). This creates an invisible barrier against water stains and dust, while maintaining the material's breathability. Apply in well-ventilated areas and allow to dry for 24 hours before wearing the strap.

Storage:

Store the strap in a breathable cotton bag, never plastic. Add a silica gel packet only in particularly humid environments (relative humidity above 65%). Store in a cool, dark, dry place, preferably with the strap laid flat rather than rolled, to avoid permanent creases on the sanded surface.

Restoring the nap:

If the suede develops flattened or compacted areas—a natural sign of aging—use a suede eraser (available at fine leather goods stores) with light circular motions. This restores the nap and brings back softness to the surface.

What to absolutely avoid:

• Machine washing or hand washing with soapy water
• Drying near radiators, hairdryers, or direct sunlight
• Applying polishing waxes or products for lacquered leather
• Prolonged tight rolling (causes permanent cracks)
• Exposure to perfumes, alcohol, chemical solvents

Discover Milano Straps suede straps — Milanese craftsmanship, shipping in 48 hours. For a custom-made strap, visit the Casati Milano atelier in Via XX Settembre 15, Milan — by appointment.