A custom strap is not simply "a more expensive strap". It is an object born from the dialogue between client, material and craftsman. In the Casati Milano atelier, every custom strap goes through 6 stages — from the first consultation to delivery. Let me tell you how it works, why it works this way, and what makes each piece unique.
1. Appointment and consultation
Everything starts with an appointment at the atelier in Via XX Settembre 15 (by appointment only — we do not work on a walk-in basis). The first session lasts 45-60 minutes. You bring the watch, talk about how you wear it, the contexts of use (office, evening, casual, sport), your colour preferences, and what you already own. I ask you questions about your wrist size, how it reacts to sweat, and other straps you have loved or disliked. It is not a sale: it is a consultation.
From this dialogue emerges the production brief — a sheet with all the choices to be made in the following stages. We often leave the first session with a clear direction on 60% of the choices; the remaining 40% is decided in stage 2 after handling the hides.
2. Selecting the hide
At the atelier we have a library of certified hides: shell cordovan from Horween and Shinki Hikaku, Mississippiensis alligator with CITES certification, Tuscan vegetable-tanned calfskin, Crocodylus crocodile, Swiss goat, deer. Each hide in 8-15 colour shades.
I let you handle 4-6 candidates selected on the basis of the stage 1 brief. Handling matters: each hide has a different hand, weight, sheen and touch. You also see samples of finished straps to understand how each leather ages (the patina that will develop at 1, 3, 5 years). Once you have decided, I cut the test swatch from the actual batch we will use: from that moment it is "your" piece.
3. Precise measurement
I measure three things: the exact wrist circumference (with a flexible tape, at 3 points because the wrist is not cylindrical), the watch's lug width (with a digital calliper), and the preferred buckle position on the wrist (some wear it on top, others to the side).
From these measurements comes the strap length (long part + short part), the number and position of the holes, and the thickness at the buckle and at the lug. Measuring this badly means a strap that does not sit on any hole: I have seen expensive straps from other ateliers get it wrong because they were based on "standard sizes".
4. Design and prototyping
I draw the strap on paper: shape, stitching, edge finish, buckle choices. I send you a photo of the drawing via WhatsApp or wait for you for a review session (1-2 days after stage 3). We agree on adjustments: a more discreet stitch, a darker edge finish, a different buckle, a personalised tongue.
For very particular straps (for example, with unusual appliqués or decorative stitching), I make a prototype in generic leather to check the fit before cutting the good hide. The prototype is not charged: it is part of the process.
5. Craftsmanship
This is where the handwork begins. I cut the hide with hand blades (never laser, never die-cutting) so as not to damage the fibre. Skiving the edges to reduce the thickness without tearing. Saddle stitching by hand with waxed linen or cotton thread — each stitch passes twice, above and below, alternating. A complete stitch for a 200 mm strap is 110-130 stitches, 2.5-3 hours of work.
Edge finishing with lacquer in 3-5 coats, with drying and sanding between each coat. Final finish with neutral wax and polishing. The total hand-crafting time for a standard strap is 8-12 hours spread over 3-5 working days. For complex hides (alligator with a centred belly cut) or multiple finishes, it can rise to 15-20 hours.
6. Delivery and fitting
I call you when it is ready: collection at the atelier (30-minute session) or insured shipping if you live far away. At the atelier I fit the strap to the watch, check the fit on your wrist, and make minor corrections if needed (widening a hole, shortening by a few millimetres). You receive the production certificate with: date, hide with serial number, tannery of origin, CITES certification for alligator where applicable, and a contact for future assistance.
If you live far away, we ship with a trial-fit video made at the atelier. If a second adjustment is needed, we cover the return shipping. Casati Milano straps carry a 2-year guarantee on stitching and craftsmanship.
Timeframes and cost
From the first consultation to delivery: 4-6 weeks. Cost: it depends on the hide, and is defined together with Antonio. Personalised buckles (in silver or gold) are a separate addition. We do not offer "fast custom" work in under 4 weeks — it would not be craftsmanship, it would be assembly.
A Casati Milano custom strap does not replace an industrial strap: it transcends it. It becomes part of an object — the watch — that you wear every day and that stays with you for years. To book an appointment, message me on WhatsApp at +39 339 9958500 or come to Via XX Settembre 15 (by appointment only).