Edges
What is "Bordi" (Edges)?
The edges of a watch strap represent the lateral sides of the leather strip, the perimeter enclosing the usable surface. In Milanese watchmaking leather goods, the finishing of the edges is not a secondary aesthetic concern, but a direct indicator of construction quality and artisanal craftsmanship. A well-finished edge communicates attention to detail and structural soundness.
Historically, edge finishing techniques are rooted in the medieval workshops of Northern Italy, where artisans developed methods for sanding and sealing leather fibers that are still recognized as international standards today. Milan, the capital of luxury watchmaking and excellent leather goods, has inherited and perfected these teachings through generations of master tanners and bookbinders.
Edge finishing involves removing the exposed surface fibers from the cutting line, followed by a progressive sanding process with decreasing grits, then applying sealing substances—natural glue, vegetable varnishes, or noble waxes—which stabilize the structure and give the edge that characteristic luster of authentic Italian leather goods. It is not a detail: it is the artisan's signature.
Characteristics and Properties
The quality of an edge is determined by well-defined physical and visual parameters:
| Property | Technical Description |
|---|---|
| Texture | The surface roughness depends on the final abrasive grit used. A first-rate edge achieves a smoothness to the touch similar to opaline, with zero perceptible asperities to the finger. |
| Absorption | Exposed leather fiber absorbs moisture and natural skin oils. A properly sealed edge reduces this absorption, preserving the dimensional stability of the strap. |
| Wear Resistance | Daily mechanical friction (contact with wrist, clothes, movements) tends to fray the raw edge. Sealing with natural glue or vegetable varnish significantly extends the lifespan, especially on vegetable-tanned leather. |
| Aging | On vegetable-tanned leather, the edge develops a dark patina over time, following natural oxidation. This effect—called "natural burnishing"—is sought after in premium straps and testifies to authenticity. |
| Flexibility | An excessively rigid edge (due to overly cohesive sealing) compromises the strap's ability to adapt to the wrist. The ideal one maintains softness while preserving structural integrity. |
The Milanese technique involves the use of varnishes based on natural shellac or synergistic vegetable oils, which seal without stiffening. This balance—preserving the softness of the leather while stabilizing the edge—represents the core difference between craftsmanship and industrial production.
Use in Watch Straps
In the specific context of watchmaking leather goods, the edge performs both aesthetic and structural functions:
Structural Function: The edge is the "first line of defense" of the strap. During bending around the wrist and passing through the case's fastening loops, the edge undergoes constant tension. Robust finishing prevents premature fraying and breakdown of the leather fiber.
Stylistic Aesthetics: The style of the edge communicates the watchmaker's positioning. A polished and perfectly calendered edge suggests formal luxury; an edge with a slight patina suggests sportiness or heritage; a raw and natural edge (rare in luxury straps, common in casual-vintage) expresses contemporary minimalism. Milano Straps offers handmade edges with a flat, beveled, or slightly rounded profile, depending on the desired visual effect.
Stylistic Compatibility: Straps with natural shellac polished edges ideally pair with dress watches (Patek Philippe Calatrava, Rolex Dress, IWC Portofino, Cartier Tank). Those with a naturally burnished vegetable wax edge go better with sports or vintage wristwatches (Rolex Submariner, Tudor Black Bay, Omega Seamaster, Panerai Luminor). Straps with a raw edge—rare, but available by commission—are reserved for enthusiasts of contemporary minimalist design.
Adaptation to the Case: The color and texture of the edge must harmonize with the finishes of the watch case. A dark cognac-colored edge coordinates with yellow or rose gold cases; a light leather-colored edge with steel or white gold cases; a deep black edge with DLC or titanium cases.
Maintenance and Care
Routine Cleaning: Clean the strap once a month with a microfiber cloth lightly dampened with distilled water. The edge does not require special treatment; regular cleaning prevents the accumulation of residues that could irritate the skin or compromise the natural patina.
Protection from Excessive Moisture: Although vegetable-tanned leather is naturally resistant, prolonged immersion in water (swimming, bathing) can temporarily swell the edge. If the strap is accidentally submerged, air dry it in a cool, ventilated environment, never with direct heat sources.
Edge Regeneration (Advanced Aging): After 2-3 years of daily use, the edge may partially lose its luster. A master craftsman can perform a secondary refinishing: delicate sanding with fine-grit sandpaper (240-320), followed by a new application of glue or vegetable varnish. This intervention, recommended every 3-4 years for high-use straps, restores the aesthetic without compromising the raw material.
Seasonal Storage: If the strap is not worn for extended periods, store it in a dry place, protected from direct light. Leather tends to dry out in very arid environments; if necessary, lightly apply a natural leather cream (like leather boot balm) once every 6 months.
Avoid Chemical Treatments: Do not apply denatured alcohol, acetone, organic solvents, or synthetic polishes to the edge. These erode the natural seal. If the edge is dirty with grease or difficult substances, consult a specialized craftsman.
Frequently Asked Questions about Edges
A raw edge is the section of leather exposed after cutting, sanded but not sealed: it absorbs moisture quickly and frays with use. A sealed edge is treated with natural glue or vegetable varnish that stabilizes the fiber, reducing absorption and wear. In watch straps, a sealed edge is the quality standard: not only does it last longer, but it communicates artisanal expertise. Milano Straps exclusively uses sealed edges, as they represent the excellence of Milanese tradition.
If the strap is made of vegetable-tanned leather—like those from Milano Straps—the darkening of the edge is a natural and desired process, called "aging patina." The leather reacts to oxygen and ultraviolet light, developing darker and richer tones. This phenomenon is a sign of authenticity. If the strap is made of chrome-tanned leather, darkening may indicate moisture absorption or dirt; in this case, thorough cleaning will restore the original color.
Yes, completely. A secondary refinishing by a specialized craftsman—like those at Casati Milano—restores the edge in a few hours. The process consists of progressive sanding to remove damaged fibers, followed by a new sealing with vegetable varnish. The cost is contained (30-50 euros for a standard strap) and the intervention extends the lifespan of the piece by years. Do not try to repair it yourself with industrial glue or varnishes: it would permanently damage the leather.
For sports watches (Rolex Submariner, Tudor Black Bay, Omega Seamaster), the ideal edge is slightly rounded and naturally burnished—meaning sealed with vegetable wax that develops a dark patina over time. This style communicates resistance and heritage. If the watch is very casual or vintage, an edge with a raw character (minimally sealed) creates aesthetic coherence. For sub-zero watches (deep diving), the edge must be particularly robustly sealed to prevent water absorption. Milano Straps always adapts the edge profile and sealing to the watch model: consult the craftsman during the order.
An artisanal edge has these characteristics: a uniformly smooth surface without circular micro-scratches; a matte or semi-gloss seal, never plasticized; a natural patina that evolves over time; visibly consistent thickness; absence of bubbles or irregularities in the varnish. Touch the edge: it should be silky smooth, not sticky or hard. Industrially produced straps have very polished (almost mirrored) but fragile edges, sealed with synthetic lacquers that crack over time. Milano Straps emphasizes every detail of the artisanal edge: this distinguishes an investment from a commodity.
Discover Milano Straps vegetable-tanned leather watch straps with artisanal edges — authentic Milanese craftsmanship, shipped within 48 hours. For a custom strap with a personalized edge profile, visit the Casati Milano atelier in Via XX Settembre 15, Milan — by appointment, where the master craftsman illustrates edge finishing techniques and designs the ideal strap for your watch.