Without brand-specific spec
Universal Swiss Standard Spring Bars
Two models, seventeen total sizes. For IWC, Panerai, Cartier, JLC, Hamilton, Tag Heuer and any watch that doesn't carry a proprietary brand spec.
Technical glossary
When a watch has no dedicated spec
Rolex requires 1.8mm pins on sport models, Omega Speedmaster vintage demands precise 19mm, modern Tudor uses its own 22mm bar. But IWC, Panerai, Cartier, JLC, Hamilton, Tag Heuer have no published proprietary spec. These watches need a quality Swiss Standard bar — not the generic Amazon kit one. Swiss Standard 316L universal bars hold up because they're machined to tight tolerances, not because of branding.
Classic 1.8mm vs Double Flange
The Classic is the traditional bone-shaped bar, uniform 1.8mm pin, fits most modern sport and dress watches from 14 to 24mm. The Double Flange is the professional version with safety flanges at both ends — what I fit in the atelier when the strap is particularly heavy or the watch has slightly wide lugs. Same 1.8mm thickness, range 13-23mm.
316L Swiss Standard steel — why it matters
Cheap Chinese bars use 304 steel: they bend under repeated load, rust from sweat, lose tension after 6 months. 316L is the same steel used in professional Swiss watchmaking — corrosion resistant, holds elasticity for years. Lab tested to 10,000 compression cycles with no tension degradation.
Domande ricorrenti
Frequent questions
IWC Big Pilot 22mm: need dedicated spec?
No. IWC does not publish proprietary spring bar spec — 22mm Swiss Standard Classic 1.8mm fits perfectly. Applies to Big Pilot 5002/5009/5010, Mark XV/XVI/XVII/XVIII, Portugieser Chrono. Universal Double Flange is extra safety on Big Pilot where case is 46mm and straps are heavy.
Panerai 24mm: universal or factory screw bars?
For quick-change straps yes, 24mm universal. For original Panerai bracelet or Officine Panerai straps with rigid fastening, leave factory screw bars (lateral screws replace spring bar). On modern PAM Submersible and Luminor with aftermarket leather: 24mm universal Classic 1.8mm.
316L Swiss Standard vs 304 Chinese: how to tell?
Visually identical. Practical test: 316L resists magnetization and sweat. A Chinese spring bar that becomes magnetic after 6 months under a watch is 304. 316L shows more precise machining under microscope, but real difference appears after 1 year: 304 starts losing tension, 316L holds.
The next step
The right strap isn’t chosen. It is built, together.
From the atelier appointment to delivery, every step is made for those who know that things done well take time. Rare leathers, one piece at a time, eighteen months of warranty.
Request an appointment →What we offer
- We guide you through every step — with exclusive images directly from our atelier
- Over 50 artisanal steps for each strap — from leather selection to final stitching
- The time it takes to do extraordinary things — four, five weeks. Not a day less.
- An object designed to last a lifetime — cared for by us for eighteen months
- The right leather for your watch — chosen together, in the atelier, only for you
By appointment only · Milan