MILANO STRAPS · NUBUCK

Nubuck: the outer surface of calfskin, extensively buffed.

Nubuck leather is made from the outer surface of the hide—the toughest part—and is sanded with very fine abrasives to achieve a velvety texture. It is not suede. It is full-grain leather with the appearance of suede.

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Nubuck is made from the outer surface of calfskin — the strongest part — sanded with very fine abrasive paper. The result has the texture of suede but holds up to abrasion like full leather. Available in 18, 20 and 22mm.

With use, it develops a patina that is not seen on other materials. Cognac on an Explorer or navy blue on a GMT are combinations that always work. Sensitive to water, but it is not damaged by the first drop.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the real difference between nubuck and suede?

Suede comes from the inner side of the leather — open fibers, soft, vulnerable. Nubuck comes from the outer side — the densest part — finely sanded to create the velvety texture. The visual result looks similar, but nubuck is significantly more resistant to abrasion and moisture. For daily wear I always choose nubuck. I reserve suede for specific occasions.

Does nubuck stain easily?

More than smooth calf, less than suede. Open fibers tend to absorb oil and grease stains. Prevention is the best remedy: a nubuck-specific protective spray applied every two months reduces absorption. For stains already formed, a dry nubuck brush in the direction of the fibers removes most surface deposits.

Which watches do you pair with nubuck?

Cognac or tobacco nubuck on a 20mm Explorer or Pilot is my preferred pairing — versatile, robust, with precise character. Navy blue on a GMT-Master is less obvious but very successful. Black on a Submariner or Seamaster works well for those who want something different from smooth calf without going exotic.

Does nubuck come from the same leather as suede?

No. They come from the same animal, but opposite sides of the hide. Suede is derived from the inner surface flipped over. Nubuck from the outer surface — the most resistant — sanded with abrasive paper. The thickness you get is different, and it holds up better to abrasion. I work it in 18, 20, and 22mm.

How do you clean a nubuck strap without damaging the texture?

With a dry, soft cloth, rub gently in circular motions. For dry stains, use a soft-bristled brush — short movements, without pressing. Every 2-3 months, treat with a nubuck-specific cream. Water won't destroy it, but dry it immediately with the cloth, never near heat sources.

Can you make a custom nubuck strap at the Milan atelier?

At Via XX Settembre 15 in Milan, the leather is chosen together — on the workbench, with your watch in front of you. The nubuck is touched, compared, decided in the atelier. To schedule an appointment, write us on WhatsApp.

Why does nubuck hold up better to abrasion than suede?

The outer surface of the hide is denser and more compact than the inner surface. Suede comes from the inner side flipped over — more open fibers, more vulnerable. Nubuck comes from the outside: same origin as full leather, just sanded. It holds up better because it starts from a more resistant structure. Available from 18 to 22mm.

Does nubuck get damaged in the rain?

It doesn't get ruined at the first drop. Nubuck is sensitive to water, but it doesn't damage on occasional contact. In case of rain, pat immediately with a soft cloth and let air dry. Available in 18, 20, and 22mm.

The next step

The right strap isn’t chosen. It is built, together.

From the atelier appointment to delivery, every step is made for those who know that things done well take time. Rare leathers, one piece at a time, eighteen months of warranty.

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What we offer

  • We guide you through every step — with exclusive images directly from our atelier
  • Over 50 artisanal steps for each strap — from leather selection to final stitching
  • The time it takes to do extraordinary things — four, five weeks. Not a day less.
  • An object designed to last a lifetime — cared for by us for eighteen months
  • The right leather for your watch — chosen together, in the atelier, only for you

By appointment only · Milan