MILANO STRAPS · JAPANESE CORDOVAN

Cordovan Shinki: horse's back, on your wrist

Shinki Hikaku's cordovan is not traditional horse leather. It is the very dense inner layer of the equine back, processed with a long vegetable tanning method. It feels almost alive to the touch.

THE ORIGIN

Shinki cordovan: vegetable tanned, unrepeatable result

Shinki Hikaku cordovan is not horse leather in the traditional sense. It's the inner layer of the equine hide — a dense, compact fiber that requires lengthy vegetable tanning before it can be worked. Shinki Hikaku has been producing it for generations. Each batch has micro-variations in color: dark brown, burgundy, black. These are not applied dyes — they are the material itself.

Under the fingers, this leather has a texture that historic American tanneries do not replicate. Japanese craftsmanship adds a precision in the finish that can be felt. The softness increases with use, it does not diminish. It resists water and impacts like few other materials. The patina it develops over time is deep, almost vinegary — not superficial. Shinki does not mass-produce: this is evident.

Shinki Hikaku cordovan is worked by us into watch straps with 18mm lugs — compatible with Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean ref. 232.33.38.20.01.001, Breitling Superocean ref. A17316D21A1S1, Franck Muller Casablanca ref. 5850, Hamilton Jazzmaster ref. H32305195, Longines La Grande Classique ref. L4.705.4.58.6, Longines Elegant ref. L4.812.4.11.0, Nomos Glashütte Club ref. 742 and ref. 708.S2 — and 20mm, compatible with Omega Constellation ref. 1566.56.00. Also available in 22mm.

Milano Straps Japanese cordovan straps are available in 18, 20, and 22mm sizes. Send a WhatsApp message with your watch's reference to confirm the exact size.

For a strap custom-made to your wrist and watch, the Casati Milano atelier welcomes by appointment at Via XX Settembre 15, Milan.

Cinturini Orologi Pelle Cordovan-giapponese — pellame cordovan

Slow vegetable tanning. The inner layer of equine butt, compacted for years.

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FOR WHICH WATCH

The loop measurement for Cordovan-Japanese

Available in 18, 20 and 22mm. Each size is verified against over 45,000 references in our watch database — tell me your model, and I'll find the exact size.

Breitling Superocean A17316D21A1S1 18mm
Durona oro rosa 22mm
Franck Muller Casablanca 5850 18mm
Hamilton Jazzmaster H32305195 18mm
Longines La Grande Classique L4.705.4.58.6 (aka: L47054586) 18mm
Longines Elegant L4.812.4.11.0 18mm
Nomos Glashütte Club 742 18mm
Nomos Glashütte Club 708.S2 18mm
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 232.33.38.20.01.001 (aka: 23233382001001) 18mm
Omega Constellation 1566.56.00 20mm

Enter the brand or reference to confirm the size.

Check your watch

Shinki Hikaku cordovan is not leather in the traditional sense. It's the inner layer of equine hide — extremely dense, compact — processed with a long vegetable tanning method. The dark brown, burgundy, and black colors are not painted on; they are inherent in the fiber.

With use, it develops a deep patina. It resists water better than almost any other leather. Available in 18, 20, and 22mm. Every Shinki batch has micro-variations in color; no two pieces are identical.

Frequently asked questions

How do you care for a Japanese Cordovan strap over time?

Maintenance is minimal, but deliberate. Shinki Hikaku uses vegetable tanning that protects naturally: avoid prolonged soaking, no wax or aggressive oils needed. Once every six months, if heavily exposed to sun, use a soft dry brush and a small amount of cordovan-specific oil. Patina is your ally: it hides signs of use and improves aesthetics. On an 18mm strap for a vintage Rolex Datejust, the leather ages nobly, almost like wine.

What's the difference between Shinki Hikaku and American cordovan (Horween)?

Both are excellent, but follow different philosophies. Horween (USA) has a century-long history, robust vegetable tanning, faster and more vivid patina. Shinki (Japan) is even slower: 6-8 months of tanning versus Horween's 3-4 months, resulting in denser, deeper leather. On a 20mm strap for an IWC Portofino, Shinki offers a darker, more 'serious' initial color that progressively brightens. Horween is more versatile; Shinki is a choice for those wanting a lifetime companion. Both develop natural fissuring (creasing) that speaks to authenticity.

On which watch does a Japanese Cordovan strap work best?

It shines on classic dress watches and elegant sports pieces: Rolex Datejust (36-40mm, 20mm), Omega Seamaster (42mm, 20mm), Patek Philippe Calatrava (35-38mm, 18mm). The deep color enhances porcelain-white or dark blue dials. Avoid heavy sport divers: cordovan prefers formal wrists. On a 22mm strap for a vintage Rolex GMT-Master it's almost sinful: the leather's density handles the weight, the patina emerges nobly. For vintage watchmaking (1960s-1970s) it's a natural choice: it restores original dignity.

How do you clean and maintain a Japanese cordovan strap?

Shinki cordovan is cleaned with a dry cloth after each use. Every 2-3 months, a light layer of neutral vegetable cream is sufficient. No aggressive products: the material's density handles the rest. Water is not a problem — this leather resists well. Patina grows with years, not forced.

Why is Shinki cordovan not traditional horse leather?

Traditional horse leather uses the flank or shoulder. Shinki cordovan comes from the inner layer of the equine back: a different zone, denser, more compact. It's not just anatomical distinction. Everything changes — the fiber, the behavior, the patina it develops over time. Available from 18 to 22mm lug width.

What exactly is Japanese cordovan Shinki and which animal does it come from?

Shinki Hikaku Japanese cordovan is the inner layer of the horse's back — not conventional leather. Extracted from a dense, compact zone, vegetable-tanned over long periods. Available in 18, 20, and 22mm lug widths.

Can Japanese cordovan be custom-crafted at the atelier?

Casati Milano atelier is at Via XX Settembre 15. You come choose the leather in person — the Japanese cordovan, the lug width for your watch, every detail together. By appointment only, via WhatsApp.

How does a Shinki Japanese cordovan strap change over time?

Shinki cordovan doesn't change color: it deepens. With daily wear it develops a dense, almost acetic patina that emerges from the leather's inner layers. On 18 and 20mm straps you notice it first on edges and lugs. Dark brown doesn't fade — it consolidates.

The next step

The right strap isn’t chosen. It is built, together.

From the atelier appointment to delivery, every step is made for those who know that things done well take time. Rare leathers, one piece at a time, eighteen months of warranty.

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What we offer

  • We guide you through every step — with exclusive images directly from our atelier
  • Over 50 artisanal steps for each strap — from leather selection to final stitching
  • The time it takes to do extraordinary things — four, five weeks. Not a day less.
  • An object designed to last a lifetime — cared for by us for eighteen months
  • The right leather for your watch — chosen together, in the atelier, only for you

By appointment only · Milan