IWC · Portugieser

Strap for Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 5023 Stainless Steel / Silver

Takes 22 mm straps. Verified lug width, the straps that fit this model, and answers to the most common questions.

Lug width

22mm
Lug width22 mm
Case diameter44 mm
ReferenceIW5023-08
FamilyPortugieser
MovementIWC caliber 51613 hours, minutes, small seconds | date, day, month, perpetual calendar, year indicator | moonphase | power reserve indicator
Year2014 - 2014
CaseStainless Steel

Spring bar

Swiss Standard universal spring bars

The right category for this model · 316L steel, all lug widths 13–26 mm

Straps for the Portugieser IW5023-08

Selected for the 22 mm lug width · workshop selection

All 22 mm straps →

The Portugieser IW5023-08, seen from the bench

The Portugieser IW5023-08 Perpetual Calendar 5023 in stainless steel represents the contemporary evolution of a legend born in 1939. The brushed steel case measures 44.2mm in diameter with a 22mm lug width, housing the IWC caliber 51613 movement featuring perpetual calendar, annual indicator, moonphase, power reserve, and small seconds. This model maintains the original philosophy of combining observatory chronometer tolerances with practical wrist proportions, prioritizing legibility and visual clarity without compromising on complexity.

Frequently asked questions

What is the lug width of the IWC Portugieser IW5023-08?

The IWC Portugieser IW5023-08 features a 22mm lug width. This dimension is the standard for high-end chronographs and tool watches, representing the proportional balance between the 44.2mm case and straps of adequate substance. To verify compatibility, measure the distance between the two lugs (the protruding metal wings) on the case, from inner edge to inner edge.

Which strap material works best with the Portugieser IW5023-08?

For this model we recommend either Nile alligator or Italian vegetable-tanned calf leather. Alligator maintains an aesthetic dialogue with the brushed steel case, and the natural dorsal texture captures light like the steel. Italian calf offers superior tactile strength and develops personal patina over time. Both materials communicate the case's authority without betraying its technical soul.

How do I change the strap on an IWC Portugieser?

Strap replacement requires a specific tool called a spring bar remover or watchmaker's tools. Position the watch on a soft cushion, locate the small holes at the base of each lug, insert the tool, and apply gentle pressure to release the spring bar from its seat. Repeat on the opposite side. Insert the new strap by aligning the lug and pressing until it clicks. If uncertain, seek professional help: the risk of scratching the case is real.

Is a strap with 22mm lug width truly interchangeable on this watch?

Yes, any strap with 22mm lug width fits the Portugieser IW5023-08 without mechanical issues. However, aesthetic compatibility depends on thickness, colour, and material. A strap that's too thin appears fragile next to such an authoritative case; a colour not visually integrated creates discord. On milanostraps.it you'll find 22mm straps specifically curated to dialogue with watches of this calibre.

How long does a leather strap last on a watch like the Portugieser?

A quality leather strap (alligator, vegetable-tanned calf, shell cordovan) typically lasts 3–5 years with daily wear. Longevity depends on tanning method, sun exposure, humidity, and frequency of wear. Vegetable-tanned leather tends to outlast industrial tanning. The strap is not consumable: it's an investment that improves with time, developing personal patina. Casati Milano offers an 18-month guarantee on artisanal straps.

The next step

The right strap isn't chosen. It is built, together.

From the atelier appointment to delivery, every step is made for those who know that things done well take time. Rare leathers, one piece at a time, eighteen months of warranty.

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Casati Milano · Via XX Settembre 15, Milan · by appointment only