Craftsmanship and Strap Making — Frequently Asked Questions
How is leather cut in artisanal production?
Cutting is performed by hand with traditional tools such as the edge beveler and sharp blades, without mechanical presses. The craftsman follows the natural direction of the fibers to prevent deformation over time. For lizard leather the cut must be particularly precise to maintain the continuous pattern of scales along the strap.
Why is water-based adhesive preferred over neoprene?
Water-based adhesive does not crystallize after drying, keeping the strap flexible over time. Solvent-based neoprene adhesive ensures quick set but can make the product more rigid. It is also less impactful for the craftsperson and the environment, offset by longer drying times.
What technical precautions does lizard skin processing require?
The regularity of the scales does not tolerate imprecision: cutting must be surgical to maintain the continuous pattern along the strap. Hand stitching requires thinner thread and closer spacing compared to other leathers, to avoid altering the delicacy of the surface texture.
How are Milano Straps straps constructed: how many layers and what process?
Each strap is structured in three layers: the outer leather, an inner core that provides structure and tensile strength, and a soft lining in contact with the wrist. The layers are thinned through skiving, bonded with non-toxic water-based adhesive, and then joined through hand-stitched saddlestitch. Cutting, stitching, and finishing are all manual operations.
What is the lug end of a strap and what function does it serve?
The lug end is the part of the strap in direct contact with the watch case. It is shaped to follow the case profile, ensuring visual continuity between the two elements. A well-constructed lug end improves both aesthetic integration and strap stability on the wrist.
How does the bespoke service of Casati Milano work?
The service includes an appointment at Via XX Settembre 15 in Milan. During the session, leather, thread, stitching, and buckle are chosen together based on the client's watch. There is no catalog: the strap is built specifically for that watch and that wrist. Bespoke straps include an 18-month warranty on linings and stitching.
What is skiving and why is it important in strap construction?
Skiving consists of selectively thinning the leather along the edges or at fold points, using a specialized knife or manual machine. It reduces thickness at critical points, improving flexibility and appearance. It is essential for finishing techniques such as the rembordé and requires precision to the tenth of a millimeter.
How are the edges of handcrafted straps finished?
The edges undergo edge staining: they are sanded with progressive abrasive papers, then receive multiple coats of stain alternated with further sanding. The cycle is repeated until a smooth, slightly rounded edge is achieved, finally sealed with hot beeswax. This operation is not decorative: a properly finished edge resists wear and does not fray.
Why is waxed linen thread preferred over synthetic thread?
Waxed linen thread, impregnated with beeswax, has high tensile strength and ages alongside the leather, integrating visually over time. Synthetic thread offers good resistance and a wide range of colors, but does not merge aesthetically with the material. The choice of thread reflects the approach to product durability.
What is saddlestitch and why is it more durable than machine stitching?
Saddlestitch uses a single thread with two needles that cross in each hole, creating an internal knot point by point. If one stitch breaks, the seam does not unravel. Machine stitching, using chain stitch, would progressively unravel from the first break. The preferred thread is waxed linen, for strength and its ability to age with the leather.
Are Milano Straps watch straps produced in Italy?
Yes. The straps are handcrafted in the founder's Milan laboratory using artisanal leather-working techniques. Production is local, not outsourced. From the laboratory, the straps are shipped worldwide to both private customers and retailers through Milano Straps' B2C and B2B channels.