MILANO STRAPS · Grand Cavalier Cuir

Grand Cavalier Cuir: the calfskin that ages like Hermès

Grand Cavalier Cuir is the vegetable-tanned calfskin that Hermès has used for decades for its most sought-after items. Vegetable-tanned, with visible veining and uneven grain. It is not a perfect leather—it is real leather.

THE ORIGIN

Vegetable tanning: the same one Hermès has been using for decades

Grand Cavalier Cuir Calf leather is the leather Hermès has used for decades for its most iconic items. It is a vegetable-tanned calf leather, treated with natural tannins. With use, it develops an amber patina that no other leather can imitate.

To the touch, Grand Cavalier Cuir is not a leather that appears finished. The structure is slightly stiff, leathery. The veins remain visible, the grain is fine but not uniform — and that's the point. The surface is not perfect, and it shouldn't be. It becomes what it is over time. It is sensitive to water and sweat: it requires care, not aggressive treatments.

Hermès is the name that has made Grand Cavalier Cuir recognizable in the industry. Grand Cavalier Cuir Faubourg — the brand's flagship version, French vegetable-tanned — is the reference collectors cite when talking about this leather. Natural colors vary from batch to batch: no two Grand Cavalier Cuir pieces are identical.

Milano Straps works Grand Cavalier Cuir in 18mm, 20mm, and 22mm sizes. Its durability on generous sizes — 20 and 22mm — is one of this leather's strengths. Those looking for a strap for a 36mm Datejust or a vintage dress watch will find Grand Cavalier Cuir to be the right answer: it ages well, accompanying without imposing itself.

For a strap built to the exact measurements of your watch, the Casati Milano atelier receives by appointment at Via XX Settembre 15, Milan.

Cinturini Orologi Pelle Grand Cavalier Cuir — Milano Straps

Vegetable tanned, with vivid grain. The amber patina comes later, with age.

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FOR WHICH WATCH

The loop measurement for Grand Cavalier Cuir

Available in 18, 20 and 22mm. Compatible with over 45,000 references in our database — from the Datejust 36 to the Calatrava. Tell me the model: I'll tell you the exact size.

Breitling Superocean A17316D21A1S1 18mm
Durona oro rosa 22mm
Franck Muller Casablanca 5850 18mm
Hamilton Jazzmaster H32305195 18mm
Longines La Grande Classique L4.705.4.58.6 (aka: L47054586) 18mm
Longines Elegant L4.812.4.11.0 18mm
Nomos Glashütte Club 742 18mm
Nomos Glashütte Club 708.S2 18mm
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 232.33.38.20.01.001 (aka: 23233382001001) 18mm
Omega Constellation 1566.56.00 20mm

Enter the brand or reference to confirm the size.

Check your watch

Grand Cavalier Cuir is a calfskin with a vegetable tan. It's the same leather Hermès has used for decades for its most sought-after items. The surface is not uniform — visible veins, fine grain, colors that vary from batch to batch. That's what makes every strap different.

With use, it takes on unmistakable amber tones. Available in 18, 20 and 22mm. Requires water protection. It's not a leather for those who want something easy — it's for those who know what to expect.

Frequently asked questions

What is the Grand Cavalier Cuir?

The Grand Cavalier Cuir is a vegetable-tanned calfskin, worked by hand in Milan. With wear it develops an amber patina that brings out its grain over time. It's a leather designed for those who want a strap that changes appearance alongside the watch, rather than staying identical to itself.

Why is it said to age like Hermès leathers?

The reference concerns vegetable tanning, the same technique used for leathers that darken and become richer with wear instead of staying flat over time. The Grand Cavalier Cuir follows the same principle: the surface absorbs oils and light, and the amber tone deepens with months of daily wear on the wrist.

What is vegetable tanning and what sets it apart?

Vegetable tanning uses natural tannins extracted from bark and wood, instead of the chromium salts used in industrial tanning. The result is a leather that matures, changes colour with light and contact with skin, and doesn't stay uniform like chrome-tanned leather. It's this process that gives the Grand Cavalier Cuir its amber patina.

In which widths is the Grand Cavalier Cuir offered?

The Grand Cavalier Cuir is offered in widths of 18, 20 and 22mm. You can select the one matching your lug width directly on the strap's page, before choosing the piece.

How do I find my watch's lug width before choosing?

The simplest way is to search for your watch in the Milano Straps watch archive, which you can also open from the 'Find your watch's size' box on every strap page. Alternatively, you can send a photo of your watch on WhatsApp to the atelier, or photograph it on app.milanostraps.it, which recognises the model. A ruler or calliper between the two lugs remains the last resort, to be used only if the first two options are not enough.

Can I have the Grand Cavalier Cuir made to measure?

Made to measure in this leather is not a Milano Straps service: it is made by Casati Milano, in the atelier at Via XX Settembre 15, by appointment only. For this type of work you need to contact Casati Milano directly through casatimilano.com.

The next step

The right strap isn’t chosen. It is built, together.

From the atelier appointment to delivery, every step is made for those who know that things done well take time. Rare leathers, one piece at a time, eighteen months of warranty.

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What we offer

  • We guide you through every step — with exclusive images directly from our atelier
  • Over 50 artisanal steps for each strap — from leather selection to final stitching
  • The time it takes to do extraordinary things — four, five weeks. Not a day less.
  • An object designed to last a lifetime — cared for by us for eighteen months
  • The right leather for your watch — chosen together, in the atelier, only for you

By appointment only · Milan