Strap for Zürich Hello Hannes

The Nomos Glashütte Zürich 801.HW features a 20 mm lug width. This is an unconventional measurement, calculated by Glashütte based on the harmonic proportions of the 39.70 mm case. To verify correct measurement, place a digital calliper between the two spring bars (the metal pins holding the strap) with care: it should indicate 20 mm of free space. This precision is crucial for ensuring an optimal fit.

For the Nomos Glashütte Zürich 801.HW, we recommend a full-grain calf leather strap with vegetable tanning, in medium brown or cognac. This choice amplifies the Bauhaus identity of the watch: vegetable-tanned leather develops natural patina over time, creating an aesthetic dialogue with the ageing of the dial. For formal contexts, alligator with natural texture further enhances refinement. For everyday versatility, a grey-anthracite woven NATO strap offers practicality without compromising elegance.

Strap replacement is straightforward: use a spring bar tool (small instrument with rounded end) to gently push one of the two spring bars towards the inside of the case, releasing the pin. Repeat on the other side. To reinstall the new 20 mm strap, align the holes with the pins and press with the spring bar tool until the mechanism clicks into position. Work on a soft surface to avoid scratching the stainless steel case.

Any strap with a 20 mm lug width is compatible with the Nomos Glashütte Zürich 801.HW, regardless of material: full-grain leather, alligator, shell cordovan, woven NATO, FKM rubber with deployant. The critical variable is solely the strap width. Always verify that the strap is labelled as "20 mm" and that the holes are positioned for standard spring bars (5 mm diameter). Atelier Casati Milano produces custom straps in this size.

A full-grain leather strap with vegetable tanning worn daily maintains full functionality for 3-5 years. Durability depends on wear: the main stress point is the lug hole, subject to micro-flexing. Periodically rotate the strap between the various adjustment holes to distribute wear. Alligator and shell cordovan last longer (5-8 years) owing to their more resistant fibrous structure. An FKM rubber strap maintains elasticity for 4-6 years. In any case, a quality strap can be restored by a specialist atelier (re-stitching, cleaning, pigment regeneration).