20mm strap lugs: the most common size, custom-made

If your watch has 20mm lugs, you're holding the proportion that appears most often in our archive: 38.8% of catalogued models use it, from a total of 15,454 compatible references. Rolex, Omega, TAG Heuer, Longines — the list changes from one wrist to another, but the size remains constant. It's the starting point from which we choose leather, cut, and stitching for your strap.

What actually happens to a 20mm lug

20mm is a middle ground: wide enough to support substantial cases, contained enough not to weigh down the wrist. In our archive it accounts for 15,454 compatible models, distributed across brands ranging from Rolex (2,106) to Tissot (577). It's a proportion that manufacturers respect within just a few millimeters of case diameter.

The leather you choose changes how the lug ages. Calf shows time through grain settling, alligator maintains texture longer but requires less repeated flexing, cordovan develops its own sheen after months of wearing. On a 20mm lug, where the strap works between two close lugs, the choice of leather affects stitch durability as much as aesthetic result.

Rolex and Tudor design the lug flush with the case, with almost no space for the strap; Omega and Longines leave a few tenths more, useful for those seeking a more structured strap. TAG Heuer alternates between the two approaches depending on collection. These differences only show when the strap is cut to measure, not when it's a size that fits everyone.

Cinturini Orologi per Misura Ansa 20mm — Milano Straps

Italian Leatherda €80

French Calfskinda €120

A. Lange & Söhne 232.032

20mm

Glashütte Original 1-65-01-22-12-64

20mm

Glashütte Original 100-03-32-45-01

20mm

A. Lange & Söhne 405.035 (aka: 405035)

Jules Audemars 25984 Grande Complication Platinum Gold / White Breguet / Bracelet

20mm

Audemars Piguet 25984PT.OO.1138PT.01

Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon Pink Gold / Eggshell / Alligator

20mm

Jaeger-LeCoultre 1692410

Domande frequenti

How do I know if my watch has 20mm lugs?

Measure the distance between the two ends of the lug, where the strap attaches: if it's exactly 20 millimeters, you're in the largest group in our archive, 38.8% of the 15,454 catalogued models. Alternatively, look for the number on your watch's technical sheet or write to us with the reference: we verify it in the atelier before cutting any leather.

Which brands most often mount 20mm lugs?

In our archive, Rolex leads with 2,106 models with 20mm lugs, followed by Omega (1,628), TAG Heuer (1,233), Longines (1,001), Breitling (887), Tudor (689), IWC (648), and Tissot (577). These are the numbers we see most often when a collector brings their watch to us for a custom strap.

Which leathers are available for 20mm lugs?

For this size we work with eight leathers: nylon (80 variants), calf (60), alligator (38), saffiano (26), suede (19), cordovan (11), lizard (8), and ostrich (2). Each leather has a different result on a 20mm lug, from the technical look of nylon to the slow patina of cordovan.

Does a 20mm strap work on any case?

No, lug width is only one factor: how it tightens between the two arms and how it tapers toward the buckle also matter. For 20mm we work the taper based on your watch's actual case, not a standard size. That's why we always ask for the exact reference before cutting.

How much does a custom strap for 20mm lugs cost?

The price depends on the leather, the work involved, and the details requested: we don't use a fixed list because every strap is made for the person wearing it. We discuss it in the atelier, or by email if you prefer to start there, looking together at your watch and the most suitable leather.

Can I see the straps in person before choosing?

Yes, the atelier is at Via XX Settembre 15 in Milan, but by appointment only: we prefer to dedicate time to each collector without overlap. Bring your watch, we try the ready-made leathers together in the atelier and evaluate the exact size of your 20mm lugs.