Glossary · Materials
Suede
Definition
Suede is the inner surface of hide turned over — not the glossy outer face, but the side with open fibres, treated to achieve a velvety texture. It is the most informal leather among those I use, and one of the most difficult to keep in good condition. But when paired well, no material comes close to it for understated elegance. I work mainly with calf suede and lambskin suede. Calf is sturdier and more resistant to abrasion — the texture is slightly coarser but holds up better with use. Lambskin is finer and silkier — the texture is almost imperceptible but requires more care. For straps you wear regularly, I prefer calf suede. For fine linings, lambskin. Suede does not like water. This is its main limitation: a downpour can leave permanent marks that no treatment fully removes. For this reason, I recommend it for watches that are not worn in the rain or in damp conditions. For those whose lifestyle involves this kind of use, smooth calfskin or nubuck hold up better. As for pairing: anthracite grey suede on an 18mm Patek Philippe Calatrava is one of the most sophisticated combinations I have put together. Tobacco on a 1960s dress watch with a silver dial is nearly perfect. Black on a dark suit is the formal classic that never fails.
Frequently asked questions
Does suede hold up to rain?
No — it is its main limitation. Suede has open fibres that absorb water and warp, leaving marks that are difficult to remove. If it gets slightly wet, it can be dabbed with a dry cloth and left to air-dry. If it gets very wet, the risk of permanent damage is real. For those living in humid climates or wearing the watch in variable conditions, I recommend smooth calfskin or nubuck.
How do you clean suede?
With a dedicated suede brush — light strokes in the direction of the fibres to remove dust and revive the texture. For dry stains, a suede eraser. Never water, never creams for smooth leather — they have different formulations and would damage the open fibres. A waterproofing spray specific to suede, applied every two months, reduces vulnerability to moisture.
Which watches do you pair suede with?
Grey or tobacco suede on classic dress watches: Patek Philippe Calatrava, Vacheron Constantin Patrimony, 1960s vintage pieces with a silver dial. Black on dark formal suits is the formal classic. I avoid suede on sports or diving watches — the context is wrong and the material would suffer. Suede calls for a well-groomed wrist and an elegant context.
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