Glossary · Materials
Vitello Maurice
Definition
Vitello Maurice is Hermès' quintessential leather—a French vegetable-tanned calf that embodies the pinnacle of luxury pellame craftsmanship. I've studied it extensively: it's full-grain calf, tanned using traditional vegetable tannins, developing a natural golden patina and unmistakable softness with wear. Hermès uses it for iconic handbags, and I choose it for bespoke straps when clients seek sophisticated, versatile leather that ages beautifully. The smooth, compact surface resists moisture well, and its fine grain makes it elegant on Rolex Datejust 36mm, Omega Seamaster dress watches, Patek Philippe Calatrava. It's not exotic leather, so no CITES restrictions apply. Its greatest merit: beneath the wrist, it develops a patina that tells the story of its wearer.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use a Vitello Maurice strap on a 20mm Rolex Submariner?
Absolutely. Vitello Maurice is robust enough for sport watches. On a 20mm Sub it gains refined character, contrasting the steel case's hardness. One caveat: avoid repeated immersion; it's vegetable-tanned, not synthetic. The patina that forms is extraordinary on this type of strap.
Is Vitello Maurice exclusively Hermès, or do other tanneries produce it?
Hermès uses it exclusively for the maison, but the vegetable-tanning recipe isn't patented. French tanneries like Tanneries du Puy produce similarly-quality calf. The difference: Hermès' Vitello Maurice has even stricter raw material selection and proprietary processing that makes it unique. On an IWC Pilot 21mm, you'll recognize the difference in patina within six months.
How long does a Vitello Maurice strap last? Does it need maintenance?
It lasts 10-15 years of daily wear, depending on water and sun exposure. Not immortal like box calf, but the patina will compensate with time. Minimal maintenance: quick drying if wet, conditioning once every two years with natural wax. On a Patek Philippe Aquanaut 22mm, the Maurice ages without losing elegance—it simply becomes more precious.
The next step
The right strap isn't chosen. It is built, together.
From the atelier appointment to delivery, every step is made for those who know that things done well take time. Rare leathers, one piece at a time, eighteen months of warranty.
Request an appointment →Casati Milano · Via XX Settembre 15, Milan · by appointment only