Glossary · Materials

African Ostrich

IT: Struzzo Africano - pelle di struzzo

Definition

African ostrich leather — Struthio camelus — is recognisable by the characteristic round nodules that emerge from the surface: these are the quill follicles, and they are what distinguishes genuine leather from an imitation. The most prized area is the centre of the back, where the nodules are more uniform and densely packed. At the sides, the leather becomes smoother — less characteristic, but still of quality. I've always found ostrich underrated compared to alligator. That's a mistake. Ostrich leather is remarkably hard-wearing — more so than the ostrich itself, if I may make the joke. It has a natural flexibility that allows the strap to adapt to the wrist without a break-in period. It doesn't stiffen in the cold, it doesn't crack with prolonged use. The tanning is decisive. Vegetable-tanned ostrich develops a warm patina, with the nodules becoming more defined over time. Chrome-tanned ostrich is more uniform and less interesting — I can tell by touch. As for pairing: black or anthracite ostrich on a Rolex Explorer or an IWC Pilot at 20-22mm works very well — the texture is discreet enough not to overshadow the watch but distinctive enough to set it apart from ordinary calfskin. Tobacco brown on a vintage dress watch is among my favourite pairings.

Frequently asked questions

How do I recognise genuine ostrich leather from an imitation?

The nodules on the surface of genuine ostrich are three-dimensional — you can feel them by touch even before you see them. An imitation printed on cowhide has nodules that are flat, regular, identical to one another. Genuine ostrich has nodules of slightly varying size, arranged organically. In the central area of the back they are more densely packed, at the sides they thin out. If all the nodules are identical, it's a print.

Does ostrich withstand daily use as well as calfskin?

Better. The fibrous structure of ostrich is naturally elastic — it adapts to the wrist without a break-in period and withstands repeated flexing without cracking. For those who wear their watch all day, ostrich is a practical choice as well as an aesthetic one. The only thing to watch for is prolonged moisture: like all exotic leathers, it doesn't like constant sweat.

Which watches do I pair ostrich leather with?

Black or anthracite ostrich on an Explorer or a Pilot at 20-22mm is a solid pairing — the texture is distinctive without being excessive. Tobacco brown on a vintage 1960s-70s dress watch is among my favourites. I avoid ostrich on sports watches with an integrated case — the texture is too formal for that context.

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Updated on · by Antonio Zichichi