Glossary · Materials
Nubuck
Definition
Nubuck is often confused with suede, but they are two different things. Suede is obtained from the inner surface of the hide turned over. Nubuck is obtained from the outer surface of the hide — the more resistant part — worked with extremely fine abrasive papers until a velvety texture is achieved. The result is a material that has the look of suede but the resistance of full-grain leather. This difference is not small. Nubuck holds up much better to abrasion and moisture than suede — it is not waterproof, but it does not get damaged at the first drop of water. For those who love the velvety aesthetic but have a more active lifestyle, nubuck is the right choice over suede. I work with quality calfskin nubuck — the raw material is fundamental here too. An industrial nubuck from low-quality calfskin has an irregular texture and tends to polish on contact areas. Good European calfskin nubuck keeps a uniform texture over time and develops a distinctive patina not seen on other materials. For pairing: cognac or tobacco nubuck on a Rolex Explorer or an IWC Pilot at 20mm is one of the most versatile straps I have built — formal enough, robust enough for daily use. Navy blue on a GMT is a less obvious but very successful pairing.
Frequently asked questions
What is the real difference between nubuck and suede?
Suede comes from the inner side of the hide — open fibres, soft, vulnerable. Nubuck comes from the outer side — the more compact and resistant part — finely sanded to create the velvety texture. The visual result is similar, but nubuck is significantly more robust to abrasion and moisture. For daily use I always choose nubuck. I reserve suede for specific occasions.
Does nubuck stain easily?
More than smooth calfskin, less than suede. The open fibres tend to absorb oil and grease stains. Prevention is the best remedy: a specific nubuck protective spray applied every two months reduces absorption. For stains that have already formed, a dry nubuck brush used in the direction of the fibres removes most surface deposits.
Which watches do you pair nubuck with?
Cognac or tobacco nubuck on an Explorer or a Pilot at 20mm is my favourite pairing — versatile, robust, with a precise character. Navy blue on a GMT-Master is less obvious but very successful. Black on a Submariner or a Seamaster works well for those who want something different from smooth calfskin without going fully exotic.
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