Atelier finder

Spring Bars for Omega

Speedmaster, Seamaster, Constellation, Aqua Terra. From 18 to 23 millimetres, 1.8mm factory pin.

Technical glossary

1.8mm pin: the Omega spec few know about

Omega fits sport models with 1.8mm pin spring bars — same as the Rolex sport line. Speedmaster Professional, Seamaster Diver 300m, Planet Ocean, Aqua Terra: all 1.8mm pin. An aftermarket 1.5mm bar fits but bends within three months under a steel bracelet. My Omega Genuine Replacement bars come direct from Bienne — same factory replacement code as the brand itself.

Lug width 18 → 23mm: each Speedy is its own case

Speedmaster Professional 311.30.42 → 20mm. Speedmaster Reduced → 19mm. Vintage Speedmaster Mark II → 21mm. Speedmaster Date 3210 → 20mm. Seamaster Diver 300m 41mm → 20mm, Seamaster Diver 42mm → 20mm, Seamaster Diver 43.5mm → 21mm. Aqua Terra 38mm → 19mm, Aqua Terra 41mm → 20mm. Constellation 35mm → 23mm. Lugs are measured, not assumed.

Vintage Speedmaster cal. 321: coned lugs

Pre-1969 Speedmasters with calibre 321 and all 105.012, 145.012 references have coned lugs — narrower at the base. Nominal lug width is 20mm but actual contact width is 19mm. For those I use 1.5mm pin standard but with oversized sleeve. Same logic for the MoonShine Gold Speedmaster 310.60.42: bevelled lugs, 1.8mm pin, specific sleeve.

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Frequent questions

How do I work out the lug width without a caliper?

The manufacturer's spec sheet always lists it. If you don't have it, take a ruler and measure between the inside faces of the lugs — the value rounded to the nearest even millimetre is almost always the right one. To be sure, the finder above starts from the reference and gives you the measurement without guesswork.

Standard 1.5mm vs fat 1.8/2.0mm spring bars — when does it really matter?

On Rolex sport watches. A Submariner 116610 with a thicker leather strap needs the fat pin — 1.5mm would bend under the load. On a dress Datejust or an Omega Constellation the standard pin is fine. When in doubt, look at strap thickness: dressy leather under 4mm goes with the standard pin, sports straps over 4mm prefer the bigger pin.

My Rolex has drilled lugs — can I still use standard spring bars?

Yes, as long as lug width and diameter are right. Spring bars for drilled lugs aren't stronger — they're simply designed to be pushed from outside with a pointed tool, faster in the workshop. The standard spring bar works perfectly in the same housing.

Original Rolex or aftermarket Swiss Standard spring bars?

Original Rolex only come through the Rolex Service channel and are often hard to source. A good aftermarket Swiss Standard spring bar — hardened steel, proper dimensional tolerance — covers the same use. It's what I fit in the atelier on the straps I make for clients.

The next step

The right strap isn’t chosen. It is built, together.

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What we offer

  • We guide you through every step — with exclusive images directly from our atelier
  • Over 50 artisanal steps for each strap — from leather selection to final stitching
  • The time it takes to do extraordinary things — four, five weeks. Not a day less.
  • An object designed to last a lifetime — cared for by us for eighteen months
  • The right leather for your watch — chosen together, in the atelier, only for you

By appointment only · Milan